Skye, Island of (Scotland) -- Description and travel
The only thing likely to interest the stranger at the little hostelry
of St Catherine's is John Campbell, the proprietor of the same, and
driver of the coach from the inn to the steamboat wharf at Loch Goil.
John has a presentable person and a sagacious countenance; his gray
eyes are the homes of humour and shrewdness; and when seated on the
box, he flicks his horses and manages the ribbons to admiration. He
is a good story-teller, and he knows it. He has not started on his
journey a hundred yards when, from something or another, he finds you
occasion for a story, which is sure to produce a roar of laughter
from those alongside of, and behind, him. Encouraged by success,
John absolutely coruscates, anecdote follows anecdote as flash of
sheet-lightning succeeds flash of sheet-lightning on a summer night;
and by the time he is half-way, he is implored to desist by some
sufferer whose midriff he has convulsed. John is naturally a
humorist; and as every summer and autumn the Highlands are overrun
with tourists, he, from St Catherine's to Loch Goil, surveys mankind
with extensive view. In his time he has talked with most of our
famous men, and can reproduce their tones to perfection. It is
curious to notice how literary and political greatness picture
themselves in the eyes of a Highland coachman! The lion who
entrances the _soirées_ has his mane clipped. For John Campbell,
cliques and coteries, and the big guns of the reviews, exist not. To
him Fame speaks in Gaelic, and concerns herself mainly with sheep and
black cattle. What is the good of being a distinguished novelist if
you cannot swallow a glass of bitters of a morning? John will
distinguish between Tupper and Tennyson, and instruct you which is
the better man, but he will draw his conclusions from their "tips"
rather than from their poetry. He will agree with you that Lord
Palmerston is a distinguished individual; but while you are thinking
of the Premier's statesmanship, he is thinking of the Premier's
jauntiness on the morning he had the honour of driving him. John's
ideas of public men, although arrived at after a curious fashion, are
pretty generally correct. Every one who tarries at St Catherine's
should get himself driven across to Loch Goil by John Campbell, and
should take pains to procure a seat on the box beside him. When he
returns to the south, he can relate over again the stories he hears,
and make himself the hero of them. The thing has been done before,
and will be again.
[Sidenote: Inverary.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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