Skye, Island of (Scotland) -- Description and travel
"'Twere long to tell and sad to trace"
the annoyance that raw-boned quadruped wrought us. But it came to an
end at last. And at parting I waved the animal, sullen and
unbeloved, my last farewell; and wished that no green paddock should
receive him in his old age, but that his ill-natured flesh should be
devoured by the hounds; that leather should be made of his
be-cudgelled hide, and hoped that, considering its toughness, of it
should the boots and shoes of a poor man's children be manufactured.
Late in the afternoon we reached Jean-Town, on the shores of Loch
Carron. 'Tis a tarry, scaly village, with a most ancient and
fish-like smell. The inhabitants have suffered a sea-change. The
men stride about in leather fishing-boots, the women sit at the open
doors at work with bait-baskets. Two or three boats are moored at
the stone-heaped pier. Brown, idle nets, stretched on high poles
along the beach, flap in the winds. We had tea at the primeval inn,
and on intimating to the landlord that we wished to proceed to
Broadford, he went off to engage a boat and crew. In a short time an
old sea-dog, red with the keen breeze, and redolent of the fishy
brine, entered the apartment with the information that everything was
ready. We embarked at once, a sail was hoisted, and on the
vacillating puff of evening we dropped gently down the loch. There
was something in the dead silence of the scene and the easy motion of
the boat that affected one. Weary with travel, worn out with want of
sleep, yet, at the same time, far from drowsy, with every faculty and
sense rather in a condition of wide and intense wakefulness,
everything around became invested with a singular and frightful
feeling. _Why_, I know not, for I have had no second experience of
the kind; but on this occasion, to my overstrained vision, every
object became instinct with a hideous and multitudinous life. The
clouds congealed into faces and human forms. Figures started out
upon me from the mountain-sides. The rugged surfaces, seamed with
torrent lines, grew into monstrous figures, and arms with clutching
fingers. The sweet and gracious shows of nature became, under the
magic of lassitude, a phantasmagoria hateful and abominable. Fatigue
changed the world for me as the microscope changes a dewdrop--when
the jewel, pure from the womb of the morning, becomes a world
swarming with unutterable life--a battle-field of unknown existences.
As the aspects of things grew indistinct in the fading light, the
possession lost its pain; but the sublimity of one illusion will be
memorable. For a barrier of mountains standing high above the
glimmering lower world, distinct and purple against a "daffodil sky,"
seemed the profile of a gigantic man stretched on a bier, and the
features, in their sad imperial beauty, seemed those of the first
Napoleon. Wonderful that mountain-monument, as we floated seaward
into distance--the figure sculptured by earthquake, and fiery deluges
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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