Skye, Island of (Scotland) -- Description and travel
to every point of the compass to hunt for a wheeled vehicle. At
height of noon our messengers returned with the information that
neither gig, cart, nor wheelbarrow could be had on any terms. What
was to be done? I was smitten by a horrible sense of helplessness;
it seemed as if I were doomed to abide for ever in that dreary place,
girdled by these gray rocks scooped and honey-combed by the washing
of the bitter seas--were cut off from friends, profession, and
delights of social intercourse, as if spirited away to fairyland. I
felt myself growing a fisherman, like the men about me; Gaelic seemed
forming on my tongue. Fellowes, meanwhile, with that admirable
practical philosophy of his, had lit a cigar, and was chatting away
with the landlady about the population of the village, the
occupations of the inhabitants, their ecclesiastical history. I
awoke from my gloomy dream as she replied to a question of his--"The
last minister was put awa for drinkin'; but we've got a new ane, a Mr
Cammil, an' verra weel liket he is." The words were a ray of light,
and suggested a possible deliverance. I slapped him on the shoulder,
crying, "I have it! There was a fellow-student of mine in Glasgow, a
Mr Donald Campbell, and it runs in my mind that he was preferred to a
parish in the Highlands somewhere; what if this should prove the
identical man? Let us call upon him." The chances were not very
much in our favour; but our circumstances were desperate, and the
thing was worth trying. The landlady sent her son with us to point
the way. We knocked, were admitted, and shown to the tiny
drawing-room. While waiting, I observed a couple of photograph cases
on the table. These I opened. One contained the portrait of a
gentleman in a white neckcloth, evidently a clergyman; the other that
of a lady, in all likelihood his spouse. Alas! the gentleman bore no
resemblance to my Mr Campbell: the lady I did not know. I laid the
cases down in disappointment, and began to frame an apology for our
singular intrusion, when the door opened--and my old friend entered.
He greeted us cordially, and I wrung his hand with fervour. I told
him our adventure with the Jean-Town boatmen, and our consequent
helplessness; at which he laughed, and offered his cart to convey
ourselves and luggage to Kyleakin ferry, which turned out to be only
six miles off. Genial talk about college scenes and old associates
brought on the hour of luncheon; that concluded, the cart was at the
door. In it our things were placed; farewells were uttered, and we
departed. It was a wild, picturesque road along which we moved;
sometimes comparatively smooth, but more frequently rough and stony,
as the dry torrent's bed. Black dreary wastes spread around. Here
and there we passed a colony of turf-huts, out of which wild ragged
children, tawny as Indians, came trooping, to stare upon us as we
passed. But the journey was attractive enough; for before us rose a
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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