Skye, Island of (Scotland) -- Description and travel
The rock is dingy enough in colour, but
after a shower, its lichens laugh out greenly in the returning sun,
while the rainbow is brightening on the lowering sky beyond. How
deep the shadow which the Castle throws at noon over the gardens at
its feet where the children play! How grand when giant bulk and
towery crown blacken against sunset! Fair, too, the New Town sloping
to the sea. From George Street, which crowns the ridge, the eye is
led down sweeping streets of stately architecture to the villas and
woods that fill the lower ground, and fringe the shore; to the bright
azure belt of the Forth with its smoking steamer or its creeping
sail; beyond, to the shores of Fife, soft blue, and flecked with
fleeting shadows in the keen clear light of spring, dark purple in
the summer heat, tarnished gold in the autumn haze; and farther away
still, just distinguishable on the paler sky, the crest of some
distant peak, carrying the imagination into the illimitable world.
Residence in Edinburgh is an education in itself. Its beauty refines
one like being in love. It is perennial, like a play of
Shakespeare's. Nothing can stale its infinite variety.
[Sidenote: The Canongate.]
From a historical and picturesque point of view, the Old Town is the
most interesting part of Edinburgh; and the great street running from
Holyrood to the Castle--in various portions of its length called the
Lawnmarket, the High Street, and the Canongate--is the most
interesting part of the Old Town. In that street the houses preserve
their ancient appearance; they climb up heavenward, story upon story,
with outside stairs and wooden panellings, all strangely peaked and
gabled. With the exception of the inhabitants, who exist amidst
squalor, and filth, and evil smells undeniably modern, everything in
this long street breathes of the antique world. If you penetrate the
narrow wynds that run at right angles from it, you see traces of
ancient gardens. Occasionally the original names are retained, and
they touch the visitor pathetically, like the scent of long-withered
flowers. Old armorial bearings may yet be traced above the doorways.
Two centuries ago fair eyes looked down from yonder window, now in
possession of a drunken Irishwoman. If we but knew it, every crazy
tenement has its tragic story; every crumbling wall could its tale
unfold. The Canongate is Scottish history fossilised. What ghosts
of kings and queens walk there! What strifes of steel-clad nobles!
What wretches borne along, in the sight of peopled windows, to the
grim embrace of the "maiden!" What hurrying of burgesses to man the
city walls at the approach of the Southron! What lamentations over
disastrous battle days! James rode up this street on his way to
Flodden. Montrose was dragged up hither on a hurdle, and smote, with
disdainful glance, his foes gathered together on the balcony. Jenny
Geddes flung her stool at the priest in the church yonder. John Knox
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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