Skye, Island of (Scotland) -- Description and travel
Sitting in the inn I began to remember me how frequently I had heard
in the south of the destitution of the Skye people and the discomfort
of the Skye hut. During my wanderings I had the opportunity of
visiting several of these dwellings, and seeing how matters were
transacted within. Frankly speaking, the Highland hut is not a model
edifice. It is open to wind, and almost always pervious to rain. An
old bottomless herring-firkin stuck in the roof usually serves for
chimney, but the blue peat-reek disdains that aperture, and steams
wilfully through the door and the crannies in the walls and roof.
The interior is seldom well-lighted--what light there is proceeding
rather from the orange glow of the peat-fire, on which a large pot is
simmering, than from the narrow pane with its great bottle-green
bull's-eye. The rafters which support the roof are black and glossy
with soot, as you can notice by sudden flashes of firelight. The
sleeping accommodation is limited, and the beds are composed of
heather or ferns. The floor is the beaten earth, the furniture is
scanty; there is hardly ever a chair--stools and stones, worn smooth
by the usage of several generations, have to do instead. One portion
of the hut is not unfrequently a byre, and the breath of the cow is
mixed with the odour of peat-reek, and the baa of the calf mingles
with the wranglings and swift ejaculations of the infant Highlanders.
In such a hut as this there are sometimes three generations. The
mother stands knitting outside, the children are scrambling on the
floor with the terrier and the poultry, and a ray of cloudy sunshine
from the narrow pane smites the silver hairs of the grandfather near
the fire, who is mending fishing-nets against the return of his
son-in-law from the south. Am I inclined to lift my hands in horror
at witnessing such a dwelling? Certainly not. I have only given one
side of the picture. The hut I speak of nestles beneath a rock, on
the top of which dances the ash-tree and the birch. The emerald
mosses on its roof are softer and richer than the velvets of kings.
Twenty yards down that path you will find a well that needs no ice in
the dog-days. At a little distance, from rocky shelf to shelf, trips
a mountain burn, with abundance of trout in the brown pools. At the
distance of a mile is the sea, which is not allowed to ebb and flow
in vain; for in the smoke there is a row of fishes drying; and on the
floor a curly-headed urchin of three years or thereby is pommeling
the terrier with the scarlet claw of a lobster. Methought, too, when
I entered I saw beside the door a heap of oyster shells. Within the
hut there is good food, if a little scant at times; without there is
air that will call colour back to the cheek of an invalid, pure
water, play, exercise, work. That the people are healthy, you may
see from their strong frames, brown faces, and the age to which many
attain; that they are happy and light-hearted, the shouts of laughter
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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