Skye, Island of (Scotland) -- Description and travel
beautiful as the one in which you at present are. And while you sit
on the bridge in a state of half-sleepy contentment--a bee nuzzling
in a bell-shaped flower within reach of your stick, the sea-gulls
dancing silent quadrilles overhead, the white lightning flash of a
rabbit from copse to copse twenty yards off--you hear a sharp
whistle, then a shout, and looking round there is M'Ian himself
standing on a height, his figure clear against the sky: and
immediately the men tinkering the boat on the shore drop work and
stand and stare, and out of the smoke that wraps the cottages rushes
bonnetless, Lachlan Dhu, or Donald Roy, scattering a brood of poultry
in his haste, and marvelling much what has moved his master to such
unwonted exertion.
My friend's white house is a solitary one, no other dwelling of the
same kind being within eight miles of it. In winter, wind and rain
beat it with a special spite; and the thunder of the sea creeps into
your sleeping ears, and your dreams are of breakers and reefs, and
ships going to pieces, and the cries of drowning men. In summer, it
basks as contentedly on its green knoll; green grass, with the daisy
wagging its head in the soft wind, runs up to the very door of the
porch. But although solitary enough--so solitary; that if you are
asked to dine with your nearest neighbour you must mount and
ride--there are many more huts about than those we have seen nestling
on the shore beneath the smooth green plateau on which sheep are
feeding. If you walk along to the west,--and a rough path it is, for
your course is over broken boulders,--you come on a little bay with
an eagle's nest of a castle perched on a cliff, and there you will
find a school-house and a half-a-dozen huts, the blue smoke steaming
out of the crannies in the walls and roofs. Dark pyramids of peat
are standing about, sheep and cows are feeding on the bits of
pasture, gulls are weaving their eternal dances above, and during the
day the school-room is murmuring like a beehive--only a much less
pleasant task than the making of honey is going on within.
[Sidenote: The pensioner.] Behind the house to the east, hidden by
the broken ground and the masses of birch-wood, is another collection
of huts; and in one of these lives the most interesting man in the
place. He is an old pensioner, who has seen service in different
quarters of the world; and frequently have I carried him a string of
pigtail, and shared his glass of usquebaugh, and heard him, as he sat
on a stone in the sunshine, tell tales of barrack life in Jamaica; of
woody wildernesses filled with gorgeous undergrowth, of parasites
that climbed like fluttering tongues of fire, and of the noisy towns
of monkeys and parrots in the upper branches. I have heard him also
severely critical on the different varieties of rum. Of every fiery
compound he had a catholic appreciation, but rum was his special
favourite--being to him what a Greek text was to Person, or an old
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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