Skye, Island of (Scotland) -- Description and travel
On the way from Grishornish to Dunvegan, about a couple of miles from
the latter place, a road branches off to the right and runs away
downward through the heathery waste; and about forty yards onward you
come to a bridge spanning a gully, and into this gully three streams
leap and become one, and then the sole stream flows also to the right
with shallow fall and brawling rapid, the companion of the descending
road. The road up to the bridge is steep, but it is steeper beyond,
and at the bridge Malcolm jumped down and walked alongside with the
reins in his hands. In the slow progression your eye naturally
follows the road and the stream; and beyond the flank of a hill
sloping gradually down to the purple gloom of undulating moorland,
you catch a glimpse of a bit of blue sea, some white broken cliffs
that drop down into it; and, leaning on these cliffs, a great green
sunny strath, with a white dot of a house upon it. The glimpse of
sea, and white cliffs, and stretch of sunny greenness is pleasant;
the hill, which you have yet to climb, keeps the sun from you, and
all around are low heathery eminences. You stare at the far-off
sunlit greenness, and having satisfied yourself therewith, begin to
examine the ground above and on either side of the bridge, and find
it possessed of much pastoral richness and variety. The main portion
is covered with heather, but near you there are clumps of ferns, and
further back are soft banks and platforms of verdure on which kine
might browse and ruminate, and which only require the gilding of
sunshine to make them beautiful. "What bridge is this?" I asked of
Malcolm, who was still trudging alongside with the reins in his hand.
"The Fairy Bridge"--and then I was told that the fairy sits at sunset
on the green knolls and platforms of pasture chirming and singing
songs to the cows; and that when a traveller crosses the bridge, and
toils up the hill, she is sure to accompany him. As this was our own
course, I asked, "Is the fairy often seen now?" "Not often. It's
the old people who know about her. The shepherds sometimes hear her
singing when they are coming down the hill; and years ago, a pedlar
was found lying across the road up there dead; and it was thought
that the fairy had walked along with him. But, indeed, I never saw
or heard her myself--only that is what the old people say." And so
in a modern dog-cart you are slowly passing through one of the
haunted places in Skye!
[Sidenote: The spoiling of the dikes.]
I fancy Malcolm must have seen that this kind of talk interested me.
"Did you ever hear, sir, about the Battle of the Spoiling of the
Dikes down at Trompon Kirk, yonder?" and he pointed with his whip to
the yellow-green strath which broke down in cliffs to the sea.
I answered that I never had, and Malcolm's narrative flowed on at
once.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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