Skye, Island of (Scotland) -- Description and travel
Orbost lies pleasantly to the sun, and in the garden I could almost
fancy Malvolio walking cross-gartered--so trim it was, so sunnily
sedate, so formal, so ancient-looking. The shadow on the dial told
the age of the day, clipped box-wood ran along every walk. Trees,
crucified to the warm brick walls, stretched out long arms on which
fruit was ripening. The bee had stuck his head so deeply into a rose
that he could hardly get it out again, and so with the leaves--as a
millionaire with bank-notes--he impatiently buzzed and fidgeted. And
then you were not without sharp senses of contrast: out of the sunny
warmth and floral odours you lifted your eyes, and there were
Macleod's Tables rising in an atmosphere of fable; and up in the wind
above you, turning now and again its head in alert outlook, skimmed a
snow-white gull, weary--as tailors sometimes are with sitting--of
dancing on the surges of the sea.
Orbost stands high above the sea, and if you wish thoroughly to enjoy
yourself you must walk down the avenue to the stone seat placed on
the road which winds along the brow of the broken cliffs, and which,
by many a curve and bend, reaches the water level at about a quarter
of a mile's distance, where there is a boat-house, and boats lying
keel uppermost or sideways, and a stretch of yellow sand on which the
tide is flowing, creamy line after creamy line. From where you sit
the ground breaks down first in a wall of cliff, then in huge
boulders as big as churches, thereafter in bushy broken ground with
huts perched in the coziest places, each hut swathed in the loveliest
films of blue smoke; and all through this broken ground there are
narrow winding paths along which a cow is always being gingerly
driven, or a wild Indian-looking girl is bringing water from some
cool spring beneath. Here you can quietly enjoy the expanse of
dazzling sea, a single sail breaking the restless scintillations; far
Rum asleep on the silver floor; and, caught at a curious angle, the
Cuchullin hills--reminding you of some stranded iceberg, splintered,
riven, many-ridged, which the sun in all his centuries has been
unable to melt. In the present light they have a curiously hoary
look, and you can notice that in the higher corries there are long
streaks of snow. [Sidenote: The glen at Orbost.] On the right,
beyond the boat-house, a great hill, dappled with brown and olive
like a seal's back, and traversed here and there by rocky terraces,
breaks in precipices down to the sea line; and between it and the
hill on which you are sitting, and which slopes upward behind, you
see the beginning of a deep glen, in its softness and greenness
suggesting images of pastoral peace, the bringing home of rich pails
by milkmaids, the lowing of cattle in sober ruddy sunsets. "What
glen is that, Malcolm?" "Oh, sir, it just belongs to the farm." "Is
there a house in it?" "No, but there's the ruins of a dozen."
"How's that?" "Ye see, the old Macleods liked to keep their cousins
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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