Skye, Island of (Scotland) -- Description and travel
The westward-ebbing loch was sleek gold, the wet trees
twinkled, every puddle was sun-gilt. I looked at the barometer and
saw the mercury rising like hope in a man's breast when fortune
smiles on him. The curtains were drawn back to let the red light
fully into the room. "I like to see that fiery smoke on the hills,"
said the Landlord, "it's always a sign of fine weather setting in.
Now it won't do for you fellows to lie up here like beached boats
doing nothing. You must be off after tiffin to-morrow. I'll give
you letters of introduction, a dog-cart and a man, and in a week or
so come back and tell me what you think of Duntulm and Quirang. You
must rough it you know. You mustn't be afraid of a shower, or of
getting your feet wetted in a bog."
[Sidenote: Departure from the Landlord's.]
And so next day after tiffin the Landlord sent us off into the wilds,
as a falconer might toss his hawk into the air.
The day was fine, the heat was tempered by a pleasant breeze, great
white clouds swam in the blue void, and every now and again a shower
came racing across our path with a sunbeam at its heel. We drove
past the village, past the huts that ran along the top of the
cultivated hill-side, dropped down on Skeabost, and the stream with
the island of graves, and in due time reached the solitary
school-house at the junction of the roads. Turning to the left here,
we drove along the east shore of Loch Snizort, up stages of easy
ascent, and then, some four or five miles on, left the Parliamentary
Road and descended on Kingsburgh. I pointed out to Fellowes the
ruins of the old house, spoke to him of the Prince, Flora Macdonald,
Dr Johnson, and Boswell. After sauntering about there for a quarter
of an hour, we walked down to the present house with its gables
draped with ivies, and its pleasant doors and windows scented with
roses and honey-suckles. To the gentleman who then occupied the farm
we bore a letter from the Landlord, but, on inquiring, found that he
had gone south on business a couple of days previously. [Sidenote:
Kingsburgh.] This gentleman was a bachelor, the house was tenanted by
servants only, and of course at Kingsburgh we could not remain. This
was a disappointment; and as we walked back to the dog-cart, I told
my companion of a pleasant ten days I had wasted there three or four
summers since. I spoke to him of the Kingsburgh of that time--the
kindly generous Christian Highland gentleman; of his open door and
frank greeting, warm and hospitable; of his Christianity, as open and
hospitable as his door; of the plenteous meats and drinks, and the
household pieties which ever seemed to ask a blessing. I spoke of
the pleasant family, so numerous, so varied; the grandmother, made
prisoner to an easy-chair, yet never fretful, never morose; who, on
the lip of ninety, wore the smile of twenty-five; who could look up
from her Bible--with which she was familiar as with the way to her
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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