Skye, Island of (Scotland) -- Description and travel
Mr M'Ian, it will be seen, is a conservative, and hates change; and
the social system by which he is surrounded wears an ancient and
patriarchal aspect to a modern eye. It is a remnant of the system of
clanship. The relation of cotter and tacksman, which I have
described, is a bit of antiquity quite as interesting as the old
castle on the crag--nay, more interesting, because we value the old
castle mainly in virtue of its representing an ancient form of life,
and here is yet lingering a fragment of the ancient form of life
itself. You dig up an ancient tool or weapon in a moor, and place it
carefully in a museum: here, as it were, is the ancient tool or
weapon in actual use. No doubt Mr M'Ian's system has grave defects:
it perpetuates comparative wretchedness on the part of the cotters,
it paralyses personal exertion, it begets an ignoble contentment; but
on the other hand it sweetens sordid conditions, so far as they can
be sweetened, by kindliness and good services. If Mr M'Ian's system
is bad, he makes the best of it, and draws as much comfort and
satisfaction out of it, both for himself and for others, as is
perhaps possible. Mr M'Ian's speech was as old-fashioned as he was
himself; ancient matters turned up on his tongue just as ancient
matters turned up on his farm. You found an old grave or an old
implement on the one, you found an old proverb or an old scrap of a
Gaelic poem on the other. After staying with him some ten days, I
intimated my intention of paying a visit to my friend the
Landlord--with whom Fellowes was then staying--who lived some forty
miles off in the north-western portion of the island. The old
gentleman was opposed to rapid decisions and movements, and asked me
to remain with him yet another week. When he found I was resolute he
glanced at the weather-gleam, and the troops of mists gathering on
Cuchullin, muttering as he did so, "'Make ready my galley,' said the
king, 'I shall sail for Norway on Wednesday.' 'Will you,' said the
wind, who, flying about, had overheard what was said, 'you had better
ask my leave first.'"
[Sidenote: The Landlord.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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