A picnic to the bay of the second _praia_ is arranged. The islands boasts two carriages and you charter them for the ladies and the luncheon. The gentlemen go on horseback. You arrive at a rocky coast with no beach, no means of reaching the water’s edge. And there in sight of your picnic party are hundreds of huge turtles in the water! The question is proposed, “How much does one of those turtles weigh?” The inexperienced guess wildly from ten to forty pounds. A knowing one says they will average from one to three hundred! A French steamer is passing the island as you watch, and soon will round the lower end and make the Santos harbor, but she is well out from shore. You never see a little boat among those breakers. No one goes for turtles. If they were on our northern shores what would their lives be worth! but here living is too indolent to spend ingenuity on capturing turtles. [Illustration: HOTEL AND PARK, GUARUJA.] I must give you some reminiscences of older Guaruja. The town was created just at the close of the Columbian Exposition. The President of the syndicate visited the United States and bought the buildings for Guaruja, all pine, ready to put together. It looked like a section of Coney Island and very novel in that land of red-tiled roofs and plastered sides. A narrow-gauge railroad across the island and an electric light plant proved the enterprise of the company. Only three of the many sleeping-rooms in the hotel were lighted by electricity, however. They were arranged _en suite_ with a light in each, but only one switch, in the middle room, turned the three on and off. It was our drollest fun to tease the English couple who occupied one of the side rooms about the hour at which their neighbors sent them to bed. If there was a baby there they were plunged into darkness before nine. If there was a “quiet game” going on next door these poor victims must lie in a brilliant light until late. These two rooms lacked their own switches for more than a year to my knowledge. Two words you easily learn with their depths (or lengths) of meaning are, _paciencia_, patience, and _amanha_, to-morrow (which means some other time, probably no other time). If you wish to hear an uproarious laugh listen to any one familiar with Brazil hearing for the first time Kipling’s: “Now it is not good for the Christian’s health to hustle the Aryan brown, For the Christian riles and the Aryan smiles, and he weareth the Christian down; And the end of the fight is a tombstone white with the name of the late deceased, And the epitaph drear: ‘A fool lies here who tried to hustle the East.’”