Brazil -- Description and travel; São Paulo (Brazil : State)
You soon settle into a routine. Early salt bath to which your steward
calls you on schedule time, a cup of black coffee, breakfast
at nine. Perhaps you have already been on deck and greeted your
fellow-passengers, as they all do, “Have you slept well?” After
breakfast a “constitutional” on deck, pausing now and then at the
end railing to look down a few feet upon the five hundred steerage
passengers, the common details of whose lives are very public. They
are nearly all barefooted, fearfully dirty, and you gratefully watch
the ship’s doctor going among them with energetic disinfectants, and
take perhaps your first lesson in seeing English officers control the
ignorant and unclean Latin. Your admiration rises; for their discipline
is perfect even of this temporary charge. The “Nile” carries a thousand
souls. Among those poor steerage people there are nearly always deaths
at sea, but all is managed with quietness and consideration, and you
probably will not know when the sorrowful burials take place.
You have had your walk, or your energetic game of ring-toss or
shuffle-board, and sit down to rest and read, when up comes a charming
young English passenger and says, “May I include you in our sweepstakes
for the ladies?” and you may be as ignorant as I and answer “Yes,” in
response. “Two shillings, please;” and your best friend will explain
to you that you have been betting on the ship’s run for the day. If
you say no, you will probably be the only woman on the ship, rich or
poor, who has no chance to win, and you must be as gracious and clever
as you know how to make up for your incomprehensible Puritanism. At
12.30 P.M. the ship’s run is posted, and by the time that excitement is
over you go to luncheon. At 4 o’clock comes the cozy cup of tea, when
perhaps some English lady will give you a slice of delicious cake she
has brought from the famous Buzzard’s in London, and you will offer her
American ginger snaps crisp from the can in return.
When you left England your 7 o’clock dinner not only began, but ended
in broad daylight. As you near the equator the days shorten rapidly
until at 6 o’clock you see the sun at the horizon, take out your
watch, in three minutes you are in darkness without twilight. A week
later when you land at Rio de Janeiro the sun will set at 5.15 P. M.
You change temperature as well as the length of your days. Leaving
England with cool weather and thick clothing, you graduate yourself
into the lightest of raiment soon after leaving Lisbon. The water, the
air and the sides of your cabin all maintain a temperature of 82° day
and night for five or six days, and you keep yourself sheltered from
the hotter rays of the sun.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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