A summer on the borders of the Caribbean sea.Harris, J. Dennis
History
A summer on the borders of the Caribbean sea.
Harris, J. Dennis
Caribbean Area -- Description and travel
Your “Allergater in de brake” song may do for the Southern States, with
their rhythmetical-and-stolen-from-the-African-coast slaves; but to
apply it to this country would disgrace the most idiotic “What-is-it”
ever imported. Of naturally wild quadruped animals there is not so much
as a squirrel. Birds are without number.
* * * * *
Stanley is himself again! One and a half hours’ ride, two fords of the
river, (rising,) and we are at the mouth of the famous Isabella. The
river is here, but the town of Isabella has passed away forever. The
delta is covered with mahogany timbers; two schooners stand out in the
distance awaiting to transport them to Europe; and with these
exceptions--and with these alone, unless it be the absence of the
Indians--were Columbus to arrive here again to-day, he would not find a
particle more of improvement than was found here over three centuries
and a half ago. A boat load of oarsmen coming down the river, the
captain leading in a song, and all hands joining in the chorus; a splash
is heard on the other side of the water, as if broken by a fish or
clumsy sea-turtle; but except these sounds a death-like stillness
pervades the entire valley.
To get a better view, you must cross the promontory (the northernmost
point of the island) to where Columbus first landed. From thence you see
the Haytien frontier stretching away in the dim blue distance, and the
scene is enchantment.
Over the rocks we go, led on by a Spaniard on a little bay mule, that
climbs over the cliffs with an agility creditable even for a mountain
goat. The señor’s horse falters. One misstep, and they both go to
eternity!
We are on the beach. My zeal to commemorate the landing of Columbus by
gathering a few tiny tinted shells reconciles the señor to sit in the
sun and hold my horse for a minute; but I have no doubt he had rather
see me as expert at gathering peas or picking up potatoes. “Ah! H.,”
says he, “leave off writing books and gathering shells; get married, and
come to farming.” So I will--all but the married.
But you will want to know what, after all, is the matter with the port.
It is shallow. Vessels of a hundred tons burthen cannot get within as
many rods of a harbor. In fact, the only question is, why a man of
Columbus’ sense ever stopped there at all. It is not worth the pen and
ink it would take to describe it.
CALLED AT THE FIRST HOUSE FOR DINNER.
“Come, let the fatted calf be slain,” was complied with to the very
letter, except that in this instance it happened to be a _goat_.
Nevertheless, it was worth the return of any prodigal son.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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