There had been a great "pardon" on Sunday, one of the most famous of
this region of Brittany: it was held near the chapel of _Our Lady of
Good Tidings_--which stands alone in the heart of the woods as if it had
been sleeping there, forgotten, since the middle ages.
It happened that the day before, the Saturday, we had sat down in the
shade, Yves, little Pierre and I, near the church, in the hour of the
great calm of noon. A very silent spot, above which the ancient oaks and
beeches linked, as if they had been arms, their great moss-grown
branches.
Two women had come, one young, the other old and decrepit; they wore the
costume of Rosporden and seemed to have travelled far. They carried
large keys.
And they opened the old sanctuary, which remains closed throughout the
year, and began to prepare the altar for the feast of the following day.
In the green half-light of the windows and the trees, we saw them
busying themselves about the statues of the old saints, dusting them,
wiping them; and then sweeping the flagstones covered with dust and
saltpetre.
At the foot of Our Lady someone, out of piety, had placed a skull,
found, no doubt, in the earth of the wood. Greenish-looking, the cranium
staved in, it gazed at us from the bottom of the chapel, with its two
black eye sockets.
"Tell me, godfather, what is that? . . . Did someone find that face in
the earth? . . ."
Little Pierre is vaguely disturbed by this thing, the like of which he
had never seen; as if it was for him the first revelation of an order of
sinister objects dwelling under the earth. . . .
The weather, for this day of pardon, was a little dull, but delightful
nevertheless.
For ten hours, the bagpipes played in front of the chapel, under the
great oaks, and gavottes were danced on the mossy turf.
That indescribable quality of Breton summers, which is somehow
melancholy, is, if one may so express it, a compound of many things: the
charm of the long, warm days, rarer here than elsewhere and sooner over;
the tall-growing herbage fresh and green, with the extreme profusion of
red flowers; and then the sentiment of olden times, which seems to
slumber here, to permeate everything.
Old land of Toulven, great woods where the black fir trees, trees of the
north, mingle already with the oaks and beeches; Breton countrysides,
which seem to be wrapt still in the past. . . .
Great rocks covered with grey lichen, as fine as an old man's beard;
plains in which the granite crops out of the ancient soil, plains of
purple heather. . . .
They are impressions of tranquillity, of appeasement, which this country
brings me; and also an aspiration towards a more complete repose under
the mossy turf, at the foot of the chapels which are in the woods. And,
with Yves, all this is vaguer, more inexpressible, but more intense
also, as with me when I was a child.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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