A Text-Book of Precious Stones for Jewelers and the Gem-Loving PublicWade, Frank Bertram
Science
A Text-Book of Precious Stones for Jewelers and the Gem-Loving Public
Wade, Frank Bertram
Precious stones
CLEAVING DIAMONDS. If the rough material is of poor shape, or if it has
conspicuous defects in it which prevent its being made into a single
stone, it is cleaved (_i. e._, split along its grain). Hard as it is,
diamond splits readily in certain definite directions (parallel to any
of the triangular faces of the octahedral crystal). The cleaver has to
know the grain of rough diamonds from the external appearance, even
when the crystals, as found, are complicated modifications of the simple
crystal form. He can thus take advantage of the cleavage to speedily
reduce the rough material in size and shape to suit the necessity of the
case. The cleaving is accomplished by making a nick or groove in the
surface of the rough material at the proper point (the stone being held
by a tenacious wax, in the end of a holder, placed upright in a firm
support). A thin steel knife blade is then inserted in the nick and a
sharp light blow struck upon the back of the knife blade. The diamond
then readily splits.
"CUTTING DIAMONDS." The next step is to give the rough material a shape
closely similar to that of the finished brilliant but rough and without
facets. This shaping or "cutting" as it is technically called, is done
by placing the rough stone in the end of a holder by means of a tough
cement and then rotating holder and stone in a lathe-like machine.
Another rough diamond (sometimes a piece of bort, unfit for cutting,
and sometimes a piece of material of good quality which it is necessary
to reduce in size or alter in shape) is cemented into another holder and
held against the surface of the rotating diamond. The holder is steadied
against a firm support. It now becomes a case of "diamond cut diamond,"
each stone wearing away the other and being worn away itself.
The cutting process is fairly rapid and it leaves the stone (which is
reversed to make the opposite side) round in form and with a rounding
top and cone-shaped back. Stones of fancy shape, such as square, or
cushion shape, have to be formed in part by hand rubbing or "bruting" as
it is called.
The facets must now be polished onto the stone. Usually the workers who
cut do not cleave or polish.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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