A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of EuropeMacGregor, John
History
A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of Europe
MacGregor, John
Canoes and canoeing -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel; History -- Miscellanea; MacGregor, John, 1825-1892 -- Travel -- Europe
Early next morning I started directly in the teeth of the wind, and
paddled against a very heavy sea to Southend, where a nice warm bath was
enjoyed while my clothes were getting dried, and then the Rob Roy had
its first railway journey in one of the little cars on the Southend pier
to the steamboat.
It was amusing to see how much interest and curiosity the canoe excited
even on the Thames, where all kinds of new and old and wonderful boats
may be seen. The reasons for this I never exactly made out. Some
wondered to see so small a boat at sea, others had never seen a canoe
before, the manner of rowing was new to most, and the sail made many
smile. The graceful shape of the boat pleased others, the cedar covering
and the jaunty flag, and a good many stared at the captain's uniform,
and they stared more after they had asked, "Where are you going to?" and
were often told, "I really do not know."
From Sheerness to Dover was the route, and on the branch line train the
Rob Roy had to be carried on the coals in the engine-tender, with
torrents of rain and plenty of hot sparks driven into her by the gale;
but after some delay at a junction the canoe was formally introduced to
a baggage-waggon and ticketed like a portmanteau, the first of a series
of transits in this way.
The London Chatham and Dover Railway Company took this new kind of "box"
as passengers' luggage, so I had nothing to pay, and the steamer to
Ostend was equally large-hearted, so I say, "Canoemen, choose this
channel."
But before crossing to Belgium I had a day at Dover, where I bought some
stuff and had a jib made for the boat by deft and fair fingers, had
paddled the Rob Roy on the green waves which toss about off the
pier-head most delectably. The same performance was repeated on the top
of the swell, tumbling and breaking on the "digue"[II.] at Ostend, where,
even with little wind, the rollers ran high on a strong ebb tide. Fat
bathers wallowed in the shallows, and fair ones, dressed most bizarre,
were swimming like ducks. All of these, and the babies squalling
hysterically at each dip, were duly admired; and then I had a quieter
run under sail on their wide and straight canal.
[Illustration: Rollers off the Digue.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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