A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of EuropeMacGregor, John
History
A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of Europe
MacGregor, John
Canoes and canoeing -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel; History -- Miscellanea; MacGregor, John, 1825-1892 -- Travel -- Europe
A melancholy sensation pervaded the Rob Roy to-day, in consequence of a
sad event, the loss of the captain's knife. We had three knives on board
in starting from England; one had been given away in reward for some
signal service, and this which was now lost was one with a metal haft
and a curious hook at the end, a special description made in Berlin, and
very useful to the tourist. It is not to be wondered that in so many
leaps and somersaults, and with such constant requirements for the knife
to mend pencils, &c., &c., the trusty blade should at last have
disappeared, but the event suggests to the next canoeman that his
boat-knife should be secured to a lanyard.
One singular conformation of the river-bed occurred in my short tour
upon this part of the Moselle. Without much warning the banks of rock
became quite vertical and narrowed close together. They reminded me of
the rock-cutting near Liverpool, on the old railway to Manchester. The
stream was very deep here, but its bed was full of enormous stones and
crags, very sharp and jagged, which, however, could be easily avoided,
because the current was gentle.
A man I found fishing told me that a little further on there was an
"impossible" place, so when after half a mile the well-known sound of
rushing waters came (the ear got marvellous quick for this), we beat to
quarters and prepared for action.
The ribbon to keep my hat was tied down. Sleeves and trousers were
tucked up. The covering was braced tight and the baggage secured below;
and then came the eager pleasures of anticipating, wishing, hoping,
fearing, that are mixed up in the word excitement.
The sound was quite near now, but the river took the strangest of all
the forms I had yet seen.
If you suppose a trench cut along Oxford-street to get at the
gas-pipes, and if all the water of a river which had filled the street
before suddenly disappeared in the trench, that would be exactly what
the Moselle had now become.
The plateau of rock on each side was perfectly dry, though in flood
times, no doubt, the river covers that too. The water boiled and foamed
through this channel from 3 to 20 feet deep, but only in the trench,
which was not five feet wide.
An intelligent man came near to see me enter this curious passage, but
when we had got a little way in I had to stop the boat, and this too by
putting my hands on both sides of the river!
Then I got out and carefully let the boat drive along the current, but
still held by the painter. Soon it got too narrow and fast even for this
process, so I pulled the canoe upon the dry rock, and sat down to
breathe and to cool my panting frame.
Two other gentlemen had come near me by this time, and on a bridge above
were several more with two ladies.
I had to drag the boat some hundred yards over most awkward rocks, and
these men hovered round and admired, and even talked to me, and actually
praised my perseverance, yet not one offer of any help did any one of
them give!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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