A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of EuropeMacGregor, John
History
A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of Europe
MacGregor, John
Canoes and canoeing -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel; History -- Miscellanea; MacGregor, John, 1825-1892 -- Travel -- Europe
He peers with knowing eye into the shallow below him, and now and then
he dips his head a bit to make quite sure he has marked a fish worth
seizing; then suddenly he darts down with a spluttering splash, and
flies off with a little white minnow, or a struggling sticklebat nipped
in his beak.
If it is caught thus crosswise, the winged fisherman tosses his prey
into the air, and nimbly catches it in his mouth, so that it may be
gulped down properly. Then he quivers and shakes with satisfaction, and
quickly speeds to another perch, flitting by you with wonderful
swiftness, as if a sapphire had been flung athwart the sunbeam, flashing
beauteous colours in its flight.
Or, if bed-time has come, or he is fetching home the family dinner, he
flutters on and on, and then with a little sharp note of "good-bye,"
pops into a hole, the dark staircase to his tiny nest, and there he
finds Mrs. Halcyon sitting in state, and thirteen baby Kingfishers
gaping for the dainty fish.
This pretty bird has an air of quiet mystery, beauty, and vivid motion,
all combined, which has made him a favourite with the Rob Roy.
Strangely enough, the river in this part of its course actually gets
less and less as you descend it. Every few miles some of the water is
drawn off by a small canal to irrigate the neighbouring land, and in a
season of drought like this, very little of the abstracted part returns.
They told me that the Moselle river never has been so "basse" for 30
years, and I was therefore an unlucky _voyageur_ in having to do for the
first time what could have been done more easily in any other season.
As evening fell we reached the town of Chatel, and the Rob Roy was sent
to bed in the washhouse of the hotel. But five minutes had not elapsed
before a string of visitors came for the daily inspection of the boat.
As I sauntered along the bridge a sprightly youth came up, who had not
seen the canoe, but who knew I was "one of her crew." He was most
enthusiastic on the subject, and took me to see _his_ boat, a
deadly-looking flat-bottomed open cot, painted all manner of patterns;
and as he was extremely proud of her I did not tell him that a boat is
like a woman, too good to paint: a pretty one is spoiled by paint, and a
plain one is made hideous.
Then he came for a look at the Rob Roy, and, poor fellow, it was amusing
to observe how instantly his countenance fell from pride to intense
envy. He had a "boating mind," but had never seen a really pretty boat
till now. However, to console himself he invited me to another hotel to
drink success to the canoe in Bavarian beer, and to see my drawings, and
then I found that my intelligent, eager, and, we may add, gentlemanly
friend was the waiter there!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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