A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of EuropeMacGregor, John
History
A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of Europe
MacGregor, John
Canoes and canoeing -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel; History -- Miscellanea; MacGregor, John, 1825-1892 -- Travel -- Europe
Sailing was easy, too, in a fine wide river, strong and deep, and with a
favouring breeze, and when the little steamer passed I drew alongside
and got my penny roll and penny glass of beer, while the wondering
passengers (the first of many amazed foreigners) smiled, chattered, and
then looked grave--for was it not indecorous to laugh at an Englishman
evidently mad, poor fellow?
The voyage was chequered by innumerable little events, all perfectly
different from those one meets on shore, and when I came to the forts at
Huy and knew the first day's work was done, the persuasion was complete
that quite a new order of sensations had been set going.
Next morning I found the boat safe in the coach-house and the sails
still drying on the harness-pegs, where we had left them, but the ostler
and all his folks were nowhere to be seen. Everybody had gone to join
the long funeral procession of a great musician, who lived fifty years
at Huy, though we never heard of him before, or of Huy either; yet you
see it is in our Map at page 291.
The pleasure of meandering with a new river is very peculiar and
fascinating. Each few yards brings a novelty, or starts an excitement. A
crane jumps up here, a duck flutters there, splash leaps a gleaming
trout by your side, the rushing sound of rocks warns you round that
corner, or anon you come suddenly upon a millrace. All these, in
addition to the scenery and the people and the weather, and the
determination that you _must_ get on, over, through, or under every
difficulty, and cannot leave your boat in a desolate wold, and ought to
arrive at a house before dark, and that your luncheon bag is long since
empty; all these, I say, keep the mind awake, which would perchance dose
away for 100 miles in a first-class carriage.
It is, as in the voyage of life, that our cares and hardships are our
very Mentors of living. Our minds would only vegetate if all life were
like a straight canal, and we in a boat being towed along it. The
afflictions that agitate the soul are as its shallows, rocks, and
whirlpools, and the bark that has not been tossed on billows knows not
half the sweetness of the harbour of rest.
The river soon got fast and lively, and hour after hour of vigorous work
prepared me well for breakfast. Trees seemed to spring up in front and
grow tall, but it was only because I came rapidly towards them. Pleasant
villages floated as it were to meet me, gently moving. All life got to
be a smooth and gliding thing, of dreamy pictures and far-off sounds,
without fuss and without dust or anything sudden or loud, till at
length the bustle and hammers of Liege neared the Rob Roy--for it was
always the objects and not myself that seemed to move. Here I saw a fast
steamer, the Seraing, propelled by water forced from its sides, and as
my boat hopped and bobbed in the steamer's waves we entered a dock
together, and the canoe was soon hoisted into a garden for the night.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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