A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of EuropeMacGregor, John
History
A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of Europe
MacGregor, John
Canoes and canoeing -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel; History -- Miscellanea; MacGregor, John, 1825-1892 -- Travel -- Europe
In one of the adjoining Departments, according to this publication, it
appears that there are about a hundred suicides in the year among a
population of half a million. Surely this is an alarming proportion; and
what should we say if Manchester had to report 100 men and women in one
year who put themselves to death?
But we are subsiding, you see, into the ordinary tales of a traveller,
because I am waiting now for the train and the Rob Roy, and certainly
this my only experience of widowerhood made me long again for the
well-known yellow oaken side of the boat and her pink-brown cedar
varnished top.
Well, next morning here is the canoe at Epernay, arrived all safe at a
cost of 2_s._ 6_d._ All safe we thought at first, but we soon found it
had been sadly bruised, and would surely leak. I turned it upside down
on the railway platform in the hot sun, and bought two candles and
occupied three good hours in making repairs and greasing all the seams.
But after all this trouble, when we put the boat into the Marne, the
water oozed in all round.
It is humiliating to sit in a leaky boat--it is like a lame horse or a
crooked gun; of all the needful qualities of a boat the first is to keep
out the water. So I stopped at the first village, and got a man to mix
white lead and other things, and we carefully worked this into all the
seams, leaving it to harden while I had my breakfast in the little
auberge close by the shore, where they are making the long rafts to go
down to Paris, and where hot farmers come to sip their two-penny bottle
of wine.
The raft man was wonderfully proud of his performance with the canoe,
and he called out to each of his friends as they walked past, to give
them its long history in short words. When I paid him at last, he said
he hoped I would never forget that the canoe had been thoroughly mended
in the middle of France, at the village of ----, but I really do not
remember the name.
However, there were not wanting tests of his workmanship, for the Rob
Roy had to be pulled over many dykes and barriers on the Marne. Some of
these were of a peculiar construction, and were evidently novel in
design.
A "barrage" reached across the stream, and there were three steps or
falls on it, with a plateau between each. The water ran over these
steps, and was sometimes only a few inches in depth on the crest of each
fall, where it had to descend some eight or ten inches at most.
This, of course, would have been easy enough for the canoe to pass, but
then a line of iron posts was ranged along each plateau, and chains were
tied from the top of one post to the bottom of another, diagonally, and
it will be understood that this was a very puzzling arrangement to steer
through in a fast current.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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