A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of EuropeMacGregor, John
History
A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of Europe
MacGregor, John
Canoes and canoeing -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel; History -- Miscellanea; MacGregor, John, 1825-1892 -- Travel -- Europe
In passing the island at Notre Dame I fortunately took the proper side,
but even then we found a very awkward rush of water under the bridges.
This was caused by the extreme lowness of the river, which on this very
day was three feet lower than in the memory of man. The fall over each
barrier, though wide enough, was so shallow that I saw at the last
bridge the crowd above me evidently calculated upon my being upset; and
they were nearly right too. The absence of other boats showed me (now
experienced in such omens) that some great difficulty was at hand, but I
also remarked that by far the greater number of observers had collected
over one particular arch, where at first there seemed to be the very
worst chance for getting through. By logical deduction I argued, "that
must be the best arch, after all, for they evidently expect I will try
it," and, with a horrid presentiment that my first upset was to be at my
last bridge, I boldly dashed forward--whirl, whirl the waves, and
grate--grate--my iron keel; but the Rob Roy rises to the occasion, and a
rewarding Bravo! from the Frenchmen above is answered by a British "All
right" from the boat below.
No town was so hard to find a place for the canoe in as the bright, gay
Paris. I went to the floating baths; they would not have me. We paddled
to the funny old ship; they shook their heads. We tried a coal wharf;
but they were only civil there. Even the worthy washerwomen, my quondam
friends, were altogether callous now about a harbour for the canoe.
In desperation we paddled to a bath that was being repaired, but when my
boat rounded the corner it was met by a volley of abuse from the
proprietor for disturbing his fishing; he was just in the act of
expecting the final bite of a _goujon_.
Relenting as we apologized and told the Rob Roy's tale, he housed her
there for the night; and I shouldered my luggage and wended my way to an
hotel.
Here is Meurice's, with the homeward tide of Britons from every Alp and
cave of Europe flowing through its salons. Here are the gay streets, too
white to be looked at in the sun, and the _poupeé_ theatres under the
trees, and the dandies driving so stiff in hired carriages, and the
dapper, little soldiers, and the gilded cafés.
Yes, it is Paris--and more brilliant than ever!
I faintly tried to hope, but--pray pardon me--I utterly failed to
believe that any person there had enjoyed his summer months with such
excessive delight as the captain, the purser, the ship's cook, and cabin
boy of the Rob Roy canoe.
Eight francs take the boat by rail to Calais. Two shillings take her
thence to Dover. The railway takes her free to Charing Cross, and there
two porters put her in the Thames again.
A flowing tide, on a sunny evening, bears her fast and cheerily straight
to Searle's, there to debark the Rob Roy's cargo safe and sound and
thankful, and to plant once more upon the shore of old England
The flag that braved a thousand miles,
The rapid and the snag.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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