A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of EuropeMacGregor, John
History
A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of Europe
MacGregor, John
Canoes and canoeing -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel; History -- Miscellanea; MacGregor, John, 1825-1892 -- Travel -- Europe
At Cologne, while Lord A. went to take our tickets at the steamer, the
boats were put in a handcart, which I shoved from behind as a man pulled
it in front. In our way to the river I was assailed by a poor vagrant
sort of fellow, who insisted on being employed as a porter, and being
enraged at a refusal he actually took up a large stone and ran after the
cart in a threatening passion. I could not take my hands from the boats,
though in fear that his missile would smash them if he threw it, but I
kicked up my legs behind as we trotted along. One of the sentries saw
the man's conduct, and soon a policeman brought him to me as a prisoner,
but as he trembled now with fear more than before with anger, I declined
to make any charge, though the police pressed this course, saying,
"Travellers are sacred here." This incident is mentioned because it was
the sole occasion when any discourtesy happened to me during this tour.
We took the canoes by steamer to a wide part of the Rhine at Bingen.
Here the scenery is good, and we spent an active day on the river,
sailing in a splendid breeze, landing on islands, scudding about in
steamers' waves, and, in fact, enjoying a combination of yacht voyage,
pic-nic, and boat race.
This was a fine long day of pleasure, though in one of the sudden
squalls my canoe happened to ground on a bank just at the most critical
time, and the bamboo mast broke short. The uncouth and ridiculous
appearance of a sail falling overboard is like that of an umbrella
turned inside out in a gust of wind. But I got another stronger mast,
and made the broken one into a boom.
Lord Aberdeen went by train to inspect the river Nahe, but reported
unfavourably; and I paddled up from its mouth, but the water was very
low.
Few arguments were needed to stop me from going against stream; for I
have a profound respect for the universal principle of gravitation, and
quite allow that in rowing it is well to have it with you by always
going down stream, and so the good rule was to make steam, horse, or man
take the canoe against the current, and to let gravity help the boat to
carry me down.
Time pressed for my fellow-paddler to return to England, so we went on
to Mayence, and thence by rail to Asschaffenburg on the Main. The canoes
again travelled in grand state, having a truck to themselves; but
instead of the stately philosopher superintendent of Aix-la-Chapelle,
who managed this gratuitously, we had a fussy little person to deal
with, and to pay accordingly,--the only case of decided cheating I can
recollect during the voyage.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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