Hollenthal Pass--Ladies--Black Forest--Night Music--Beds--Lake Titisee--Pontius Pilate--Storm--Starers--Banket--Four in hand--Source of the Danube 38 CHAPTER IV. River Donau--Singers--Shady nooks--Geisingen--Mill Weirs--Rapids--Morning Crowd--Donkey's Stable--Islands--Monks--Spiders--Concert--Fish--A race 55 CHAPTER V. Sigmaringen--Treacherous trees--Congress of herons--Flying Dutchman--Tub and shovel--Bottle race--Snags--Bridge Perils--Ya Vol--Ferry Rope--Benighted--Ten eggs 75 CHAPTER VI. Day-dream--River Iller--Ulm--A stiff king--Lake Constance--Seeing in the dark--Switzerland--Coloured Canvas--Sign talk--Synagogue--Amelia--Gibberish 96 CHAPTER VII. Fog--Fancy pictures--Boy soldiers--Boat's billet--Eating--Lake Zurich--Crinoline--Hot walk--Staring--Lake Zug--Swiss shots--Fishing Britons--Talk-book 118 CHAPTER VIII. Sailing on Lucerne--Seeburg--River scenes--Night and snow--The Reuss--A dear dinner--Seeing a rope--Passing a fall--Sullen roar--Bremgarten rapids 142 CHAPTER IX. Hunger--Music at the mill--Sentiment and chops--River Limmat--Fixed on a fall--River Aar--Rhine again--Douaniers--Falls of Lauffenburg--The cow cart 159 CHAPTER X. Field of Foam--Precipice--Puzzled--Philosophy--Rheinfelden Rapids--Dazzled--Lower Rapids--Astride--Fate of the Four-oar--Very Salt--Ladies--Whirlpool--Funny English--Insulting a baby--Bride 177 CHAPTER XI. Private concert--Thunderer--La Hardt Forest--Mulhouse Canal--River Ill--Reading Stories--Madame Nico--Night Noises--Pets--Ducking--The Vosges mountains--Admirers--Boat on wheels--New wine 196 CHAPTER XII. Bonfire--My wife--Matthews--Tunnel picture--Imposture--Fancy--Moselle--Cocher--Saturday Review Tracts--Gymnastics--The paddle--A spell--Overhead--Feminine forum--Public breakfast 216 CHAPTER XIII. River Moselle--The Tramp--Halcyon--Painted woman--Beating to quarters--Boat in a hedge--River Meurthe--Moving House--Tears of a mother--Five francs 234 CHAPTER XIV. Ladies in muslin--Chalons Camp--Officers shouting--Volunteers' umbrella--Reims--Leaks--Madame Clicquot--Heavy blow--The Elephant--First Cloud 255 CHAPTER XV. Meaux on the Marne--Hammering--Popish forms--Wise dogs--Blocked in a Tunnel--A dry voyage--Arbour and Garret--Odd fellows--Dream on the Seine--Almost over--No admittance--Charing-cross 276 APPENDIX. Hints for Canoists--The Rob Roy's Stores--Chart of rocks and currents--The Kent--Danger--Exercise--Sun--Walking machine--Odds and ends--Future voyages 291 CHAPTER I.