A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of EuropeMacGregor, John
History
A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of Europe
MacGregor, John
Canoes and canoeing -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel; History -- Miscellanea; MacGregor, John, 1825-1892 -- Travel -- Europe
So I left the merry singers to bang their drums and hoch! at each other
in the great hall provided for their use by the Prince of Furstemburg.
He had reared this near his stables, in which are many good horses, some
of the best being English, and named on their stalls "Miss," "Pet,"
"Lady," or "Tom," &c.
An English gentleman whom I met afterwards had been travelling through
Germany with a four-in-hand drag, and he came to Donaueschingen, where
the Prince soon heard of his arrival. Next day His Serene Highness was
at his stables, and seeing an English visitor there, he politely
conducted the stranger over the whole establishment, explaining every
item with minute care. He found out afterwards that this visitor was not
the English gentleman, but only his groom!
The intelligence, activity, and good temper of most of the German
waiters in hotels will surely be observed by travellers whose daily
enjoyment depends so much on that class. Here, for instance, is a little
waiter at the Poste Inn. He is the size of a boy, but looks twenty years
older. His face is flat, and broad, and brown, and so is his jacket. His
shoulders are high, and he reminds you of those four everlasting German
juveniles, with thick comforters about their necks, who stand in London
streets blowing brass music, with their cheeks puffed out, and their
cold grey eyes turning on all the passing objects while the music, or at
any rate a noise, blurts out as if mechanically from the big, unpolished
instruments held by red benumbed fingers.
This waiter lad then is all the day at the beck of all, and never gets a
night undisturbed, yet he is as obliging at ten o'clock in the dark as
for the early coffee at sunrise, and he quite agrees with each guest, in
the belief that _his_ particular cutlet or cognac is the most important
feature of the hour.
I honour this sort of man. He fills a hard place well, and Bismarck or
Mussurus cannot do more.
Then again, there is Ulric, the other waiter, hired only for to-day as
an "extra," to meet the crush of hungry vocalists who will soon fill the
_saal_. He is timid yet, being young, and only used to a village inn
where "The Poste at Donaueschingen" is looked up to with solemn
admiration as the pink of fashion. He was learning French too, and was
sentimental, so I gave him a very matter-of-fact book, and then he asked
me to let him sit in the canoe while I was to paddle it down the river
to his home! The naïve simplicity of this request was truly refreshing,
and if we had been sure of shallow water all the way, and yet not too
shallow, it would perhaps have been amusing to admit such a passenger.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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