A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of EuropeMacGregor, John
History
A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of Europe
MacGregor, John
Canoes and canoeing -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel; History -- Miscellanea; MacGregor, John, 1825-1892 -- Travel -- Europe
But scenes and sentiments will not feed the hungry paddler, so I decided
to stop at Friedingen, a village on the bank. There was a difficulty now
as to where the canoe could be left, for no inn seemed near enough to
let me guard her while I breakfasted. At length a mason helped me to
carry the Rob Roy into a donkey's stable, and a boy volunteered to guide
the stranger to the best inn. The first, and the second, and the third
he led me to were all beerhouses, where only drink could be had; and as
the crowd augmented at every stage, I dismissed the ragged cicerone, and
trusted myself instead to the sure leading of that unnamed instinct
which guides a hungry man to food. Even the place found at last, was
soon filled with wondering spectators. A piece of a German and English
dictionary from my baggage excited universal attention, and was several
times carried outside to those who had not secured reserved seats
within.
The magnificent scenery culminated at Beuron, where a great convent on a
rich mound of grass is nearly surrounded by the Danube, amid a spacious
amphitheatre of magnificent white cliffs perfectly upright, and clad
with the heaviest wood.
The place looks so lonely, though fair, that you could scarcely believe
you might stop there for the night, and so I had nearly swept by it
again into perfect solitude, but at last pulled up under a tree, and
walked through well ploughed fields to the little hamlet in this
sequestered spot.
The field labourers were of course surprised at the apparition of a man
in flannel, who must have come out of the river; but the people at the
Kloster had already heard of the "schiff," and the Rob Roy was soon
mounted on two men's shoulders, and borne in triumph to the excellent
hotel. The Prince who founded the monastery is, I believe, himself a
monk.
Now tolls the bell for "even song," while my dinner is spread in an
arbour looking out on this grand scene, made grander still by dark
clouds gathering on the mountains, and a loud and long thunder peal,
with torrents of rain.
This deluge of wet came opportunely when I had such good shelter, as it
cooled the air, and would strengthen the stream of the river; so I
admired the venerable monks with complacent satisfaction, a feeling
never so complete as when you are inside, and you look at people who
are out in the rain.
A young girl on a visit to her friends here could talk bad French
rapidly, so she was sent to gossip with me as I dined; and then the
whole family inspected my sketch-book, a proceeding which happened at
least twice every day for many weeks of the voyage. This emboldened me
to ask for some music, and we adjourned to a great hall, where a concert
was soon in progress with a guitar, a piano, and a violin, all well
played; and the Germans are never at a loss for a song.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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