A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of EuropeMacGregor, John
History
A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of Europe
MacGregor, John
Canoes and canoeing -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel; History -- Miscellanea; MacGregor, John, 1825-1892 -- Travel -- Europe
This performance was not one to be proud of. Surely it was like
ingratitude to treat the Rob Roy thus, exposing it to needless risk when
it had carried me so far and so well.
The Aar soon flows into the Rhine, and here is our canoe on old Rhenus
once more, with the town of Waldshut ("end of the forest") leaning over
the high bank to welcome us near.
There is a lower path and a row of little houses at the bottom of the
cliff, past which the Rhine courses with rapid eddies deep and strong.
Here an old fisherman soon spied me, and roared out his biography at the
top of his voice; how he had been a courier in Lord Somebody's family;
how he had journeyed seven years in Italy, and could fish with
artificial flies, and was seventy years old, with various other reasons
why I should put my boat into his house.
He was just the man for the moment; but first those two uniformed
_douaniers_ must be dealt with, and I had to satisfy their dignity by
paddling up the strong current to their lair; for the fly had touched
the spiders' web and the spiders were too grand to come out and seize
it. Good humour, and smiles, and a little judicious irony as to the
absurd notion of overhauling a canoe which could be carried on your
back, soon made them release me, if only to uphold their own dignity,
and I left the boat in the best drawing-room of the ex-courier, and
ascended the hill to the hotel aloft.
But the man came too, and he had found time to prepare an amended report
of the boat's journey for the worthy landlord, so, as usual, there was
soon everything ready for comfort and good cheer.
Waldshut is made up of one wide street almost closed at the end, and
with pretty gardens about it, and a fine prospect from its high
position; but an hour's walk appeared to exhaust all the town could
show, though the scenery round such a place is not to be done with in
this brief manner.
The visitors soon came to hear and see more nearly what the newspapers
had told them of the canoe. One gentleman, indeed, seemed to expect me
to unfold the boat from my pocket, for a French paper had spoken about a
man going over the country "with a canoe under his arm." The evening was
enlivened by some signals, burned at my bedroom-window to lighten up the
street, which little entertainment was evidently entirely new--to the
Waldshutians at least.
Before we start homewards on the Rhine with our faces due West, it may
be well very briefly to give the log bearings and direction of the
canoe's voyage up to this point.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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