A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of EuropeMacGregor, John
History
A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of Europe
MacGregor, John
Canoes and canoeing -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel; History -- Miscellanea; MacGregor, John, 1825-1892 -- Travel -- Europe
First, by the Thames, July 29, E. (East), to Shoeburyness, thence to
Sheerness, S. From that by rail to Dover, and by steamer to Ostend, and
rail again, Aug. 7, to the Meuse, along which the course was nearly E.,
until its turn into Holland, N.E. Then, Aug. 11, to the Rhine, S.E., and
ascending it nearly S., until at Frankfort, Aug. 17, we go N.E. by rail
to Asschaffenburg, and by the river wind back again to Frankfort in
wide curves. Farther up the Rhine, Aug. 24, our course is due S., till
from Freyburg the boat is carted E. to the Titisee, and to
Donaueschingen, and, Aug. 28, descends the Danube, which there flows
nearly E., but with great bends to N. and S. until, Sept. 2, we are at
Ulm. The rail next carries us S. to the Lake of Constance, which is
sailed along in a course S.W., and through the Zeller See to
Schaffhausen, Sept. 7, about due W. Thence turning S. to Zurich, and
over the lake and the neck of land, and veering to the W. by Zug, we
arrive on Lucerne, Sept. 10, where the southernmost point of the voyage
is reached, and then our prow points to N., till, Sept. 12, we land at
Waldshut.
This devious course had taken the boat to several different kingdoms and
states--Holland, Belgium, France, Wurtemburg, Bavaria, and the Grand
Duchy of Baden, Rhenish Prussia, the Palatinate, Switzerland, and the
pretty Hollenzollern Sigmaringen. Now we had come back again to the very
Grand Duchy again, a land where all travellers must mind their p's and
q's.
The ex-courier took the canoe from his wife's washing-tubs and put her
on the Rhine, and then he spirited my start by recounting the lively
things we must expect soon to meet. I must take care to "keep to the
right," near the falls of Lauffenburg, for an English lord had been
carried over them and drowned;[XXV.] and I must beware of Rheinfelden
rapids, because an Englishman had tried to descend them in a boat with a
fisherman, and their craft was capsized and the fisherman was drowned;
and I must do this here, and that there, and so many other things
everywhere else, that all the directions were jumbled up together. But
it seemed to relieve the man to tell his tale, and doubtless he sat down
to his breakfast comfortable in mind and body, and cut his meat into
little bits, and then changed the fork to the right hand to eat them
every one, as they all do hereabouts, with every appearance of content.
[XXV.] This was Lord Montague, the last of his line, and on the
same day his family mansion of Cowdray, in Sussex, was burned to the
ground.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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