A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of EuropeMacGregor, John
History
A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of Europe
MacGregor, John
Canoes and canoeing -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel; History -- Miscellanea; MacGregor, John, 1825-1892 -- Travel -- Europe
The negligently grand, the fruitful bloom
Of coming ripeness, the white city's sheen,
The rolling stream, the precipice's gloom,
The forest's growth, and gothic walls between,
The wild rocks shaped as they had turrets been
In mockery of man's art; and these withal
A race of faces happy as the scene,
Whose fertile bounties here extend to all,
Still springing o'er thy banks, though empires near them fall.
But these recede. Above me are the Alps,
The palaces of nature, whose vast walls
Have pinnacled in clouds their snowy scalps,
And throned eternity in icy halls
Of cold sublimity, where forms and falls
The avalanche--the thunderbolt of snow!
All that expands the spirit, yet appals,
Gather around these summits, as to show
How earth may pierce to heaven, yet leave vain man below."
--_Childe Harold, Canto III._
To my surprise and satisfaction the canal had a decided current in it,
and in the right direction too. It is true that this current was only
about two miles an hour, but even that is something; and though the
little channel was hardly twelve feet wide, yet it was clear and deep,
and by no means stupid to travel on.
After a few miles I came to a drawbridge, which rested within a foot of
the water. A man came to raise the bridge by machinery, and he was
surprised to see my way of passing it instead, that is, to shove my
boat under it, while I quietly walked over the top and got into the boat
at the other side. This was, without doubt, the first boat which had
traversed the canal without the bridge being raised, but I had passed
several very low bridges on the Danube, some of them not two inches
above the surface of the water. The very existence of these proves that
no boats pass there, and mine only passed by pulling it over the bridge
itself. It may be asked, how such a low bridge fares in flood times? and
the answer is, that the water simply flows all over it. In some cases
the planks which form the roadway are removed when the water rises, and
then the wayfaring man who comes to the river must manage in some other
mode. His bridge is removed at the very time when the high water makes
it most necessary.
The bridge man was so intelligent in his remarks that we determined to
stop there and breakfast, so I left the canoe in his charge and found my
way to a little publichouse at the hamlet of Gros Kembs, and helped the
wizened old lady who ruled there to make me an omelette--my help, by the
bye, consisted in ordering, eating, and paying for the omelette, for the
rest she was sure to do well enough, as all French women can, and no
English ones.
The village gossips soon arrived, and each person who saw the boat came
on to the inn to see the foreigner who could sail in such a _batteau_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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