A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of EuropeMacGregor, John
History
A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of Europe
MacGregor, John
Canoes and canoeing -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel; History -- Miscellanea; MacGregor, John, 1825-1892 -- Travel -- Europe
While the inmates prepare for early mass, and my bowl of coffee is set
before me, there are four dogs, eight cats, and seven canaries (I
counted them) all looking on, moving, twittering, mewing, each evidently
sensible that a being from some other land is present among them; and as
these little pets look with doubtful inquiring eyes on the stranger,
there is felt more strongly by him too, "Yes, I am in a foreign
country."
On Sunday I had a quiet rest, and walk, and reading, and an Englishman,
who had come out for a day from Mulhouse to fish, dined in the pleasant
arbour of the inn with his family. One of his girls managed to fall into
a deep pond and was nearly drowned, but I heard her cries, and we soon
put her to rights. This Briton spoke with quite a foreign accent, having
been six years in France; but his Lancashire dialect reappeared in
conversation, and he said he had just been reading about the canoe in a
Manchester paper. His children had gone that morning to a Sunday-school
before they came out by railway to fish in the river here; but I could
not help contrasting their rude manners with the good behaviour of the
little "lady and gentleman" children of my host. One of these,
Philibert, was very intelligent, and spent an hour or two with me, so we
became great friends. He asked all kinds of questions about England and
America, far more than I was able to answer. I gave him a little book
with a picture in it, that he might read it to his father, for it
contained the remarkable conversation between Napoleon and his Marshal
at St. Helena concerning the Christian religion, a paper well worth
reading, whoever spoke the words.
This Sunday being an annual village fête a band played, and some very
uncouth couples waltzed the whole day. Large flocks of sheep, following
their shepherds, wandered over the arid soil. The poor geese, too, were
flapping their wings in vain as they tried to swim in water an inch
deep, where usually there had been pleasant pools in the river. I
sympathized with the geese, for I missed my river sadly too.
My bill here for the two nights, with plenty to eat and drink, amounted
to five shillings in all, and I left good Madame Nico with some regret,
starting again on the canal, which looked more dully and dirty than
before.
After one or two locks this sort of travelling became so insufferable
that I suddenly determined to change my plans entirely--for is not one
free? By the present route several days would be consumed in going over
the hills by a series of tedious locks; besides, this very canal had
been already traversed by the four-oar boat Waterwitch some years ago.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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