A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
Some distance beyond the city the road crosses the ramparts and moats of
a large fort, which had been erected by the Burmese when they last
besieged the city in 1776. This fort is now known as Muang Soon Dok, the
town of the flower-garden. To the south of the fort, and between the
city and Loi Soo Tayp, are the ruins of Muang La Maing, the ancient
capital of the Lawas, of which nothing but the ramparts and ditches
remain. It is upon the site of this city that Kun Ngu, the third son of
Kun Lung, the chief of Muang Mau, is said to have built his capital. Kun
Lung, according to the story of Muang Mau, which was translated by Mr
Ney Elias, descended from heaven by a golden ladder into the Shweli
valley, near Bhamo, in A.D. 568.
The ascent of the hill as far as the waterfall, which lies about a mile
and a half from the foot of the hill, was easy, and from thence onwards
the slope became rather steep. The aqueduct takes its water from the
Huay Kao just above where the stream plunges over a ledge forming the
crest of the fall, and a shelter for many small images that have been
placed under it by pious pilgrims. A small temple containing a solitary
image of Gaudama has been erected near the head of the fall.
Continuing the ascent along the bank of the torrent, which rushed,
glistening and foaming, down its channel of bare granite rock, at eleven
o’clock we reached the rest-houses at the foot of the knoll on whose
crest the Mya Sapeet _chedi_, or pagoda of the Emerald Rice-bowl, is
erected. The journey from the east end of the bridge had taken us four
and a half hours, the distance being a little over eight miles.
Weary with the incessant rolling and jolting we had suffered from our
long-legged, cumbersome beasts, we felt relieved from suffering as we
stepped off the elephant’s head on to the verandah railing of one of the
rest-houses, and threw ourselves down on the floor for a stretch whilst
our breakfast was being prepared.
After our meal we ascended a long flight of steps, bordered by fine
large pine-trees, to the enclosure containing the religious buildings.
The avenue of pines was most likely planted by the Burmese when they
built, repaired, or added to the pagoda in 1760. We found an inscription
giving this date for the erection of the pagoda on a board in a corner
of one of the buildings. The Shan history of Zimmé gives the date of the
pagoda as 1790, but this evidently refers only to further additions or
repairs.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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