A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
The enclosure on the summit of the knoll is square, and surrounded by a
roofed shed which faces inwards, and has an entrance-gate in the centre
of each side. The pagoda is Burmese in design, about 50 feet high,
covered with copper plates heavily gilded, and surrounded by a
copper-sheathed iron railing. The pedestals at the four corners of the
basement of the pagoda are coated with a glass mosaic of various
colours, and facing each side of the pagoda is a temple containing an
image of Gaudama. The walls and posts of the temples are richly
decorated with designs in gold and vermilion. The platform of the
enclosure is 1993 feet above the plain, and 3001 feet above mean
sea-level. The summit of Loi Soo Tayp appeared to be about 3000 feet
higher than the crest of the knoll.
From the entrances facing the plain, on a clear day the view must be
magnificent; but at the time of our visit the hills on the other side of
the plain were shrouded in haze, and we could only see the country for
two or three miles beyond the town. The city and villages were hidden by
the foliage, and the whole plain as far as we could see looked one great
orchard of palm and fruit-trees, with here and there a narrow slip of
rice-plain. Nothing can be more deceptive than travelling through such a
country, the great hedges of fruit-trees and clumps of handsome bamboos
that fringe the fields continually hiding the extent of the cultivation.
In the fringes surrounding the fields, and in the beautiful groves that
are scattered about, lie the houses of the villagers, making it simply
impossible without a census to arrive, or even make a near guess, at the
population.
Seeing one of the _Ka-wat_, or pagoda slaves, sweeping up some fallen
leaves, Dr Cushing asked him to relate the legend of the pagoda, and the
origin of its name. In reply, he told us that, long, long ago, a company
of _Pee_, or spirits, brought five of the bowls which are used for
begging by the monks, and offered them at the shrine. These were each of
different colours—red, yellow, white, blue, and green—cut out of
precious gems, and fitted one within the other; the green, or emerald
bowl, containing the rest. The pagoda is therefore named “The Pagoda of
the Emerald Rice-bowl.” He further assured us that the right name for
Loi Soo Tayp was Loi Soo Tee, its name having originated from a white
elephant that ascended the mountain, bearing sacred relics, exclaiming
as he reached the top, “Soo Tee,” or “the place ends.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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