A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
A similar passport issued for one of my later journeys was translated
for me by Dr M‘Gilvary, and ran as follows: “The Proclamation of Chao
Phya San Luang and Chao Phya Saw Lan, and all the officers, old and
young, at the Court, to Tow Rat of Chiang Dow (Kiang Dow), and Phya
Khenan Phek of Chiang Ngai, and Phya Kuan of Muang Pow, and Phya Soo Ree
Ya Yot of Muang Fang, greeting. You are informed that now there has been
a Royal Order that Nai Hallett and the teachers M‘Gilvary and Martin,
the three Nais and their servants and personal attendants, nineteen
persons, twenty-two persons in all, with six elephants and one horse and
eight guns, may go to Chiang Hsen, Muang Ngai, Muang Pow, and Muang
Fang. When the foreign Nais have arrived and wish to go in any direction
at any time, you are ordered to levy good and reliable men that are
conversant with the roads, the brooks, and the mountains to escort them,
according to the custom of the country, from one city and province to
another, to whatever place or village the foreign Nais shall wish to go.
Again, if the foreign Nais are in need of provisions of any kind, you
are ordered to provide supplies and look after them. Let them not be
destitute of anything whatever. This is given by the Royal Order on the
thirteenth day of the waxing moon of the eighth month of the year twelve
hundred and twenty-six” (7th May 1884).
This passport, as is usual, was scratched with a stile upon a narrow
strip of palm-leaf which coils up into a ring and has a stamp embossed
on it at each end. This stamp determines the real authority of the
document, and is examined before reading the document. These strips of
leaves are tough and unaffected by water, and are therefore, for the
purpose, superior to paper. When the writing grows dim it is easily made
legible by wetting the finger and rubbing it over the leaf, thus
cleansing the smooth surface and filling the scratches with the dirt so
removed.
On Monday, the 3d March, we had everything packed early in the morning,
but were delayed until nearly one o’clock before the last elephant came
in. We were to be conducted to Kiang Hai by Chow Nan Kyow Wong, the
eldest son of Chow Hoo-a Muang Kyow, the fourth of the joint rulers of
the Zimmé State. Chow Nan Kyow Wong had left the city the night before,
accompanied by his six followers and his young son, in order to prepare
the first encampment for us. He took with him four large elephants, one
of which was loaded with our baggage, and a small one, and eight
elephant-drivers and attendants.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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