A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
The party with me, besides the Chow and his company, comprised forty-one
persons—viz., Dr Cushing, Dr M‘Gilvary, two Shan interpreters, three
Shan servants, three Madras servants, Moung Loogalay, eight Shan
elephant-men, and twenty Shan porters with four large elephants. As a
shelter from the night-dews we carried a tent, so capacious and so
convenient for carriage that it reminded me of the one in the ‘Arabian
Nights’ which would shelter an army and yet could be put in one’s
pocket. Ours was formed of a roll of longcloth, 30 feet long and 15 feet
wide, that packed into a roll 21 inches long and 7 inches in diameter.
The great Zimmé rice-plain is divided into more or less extensive fields
by orchards containing beautiful clumps of bamboos and mango, tamarind,
palmyra, cocoa-nut, areca-nut, and other trees; and in these orchards,
and in pretty groves scattered about the plain, nestle numerous villages
and detached houses. Until the hills are reached the country is one
ceaseless succession of orchards and rice-fields, all of which, nearly
up to the east bank of the Meh Ping, are irrigated by canals and
channels drawing their water from the Meh Hkuang, the river on which the
capital city of the Shan State of Lapoon lies.
Starting from the bridge a little before one o’clock, we proceeded in a
north-easterly direction, and halted for the night in the fields of
Muang Doo, having passed within view of nineteen villages in the seven
and a half miles’ march. We were disappointed at finding that the Chow
and his son had not passed through the village, and that nothing was
known there of his movements. As soon as the elephants were unloaded
some of the Shans commenced cutting bamboos for the erection of our
pavilion, and before we had finished bathing, it was completed and our
dinner was ready.
Our dinner-table consisted of a cane-covered howdahseat placed on the
top of two wooden spirit-cases set on end and some distance apart. A
couple more cases, set one on the other, served as my seat, and my
companions were enthroned on their folding camp-chairs. The long arms of
my chair, although adding greatly to my comfort, and being handy for
writing, prevented it from being drawn up to our improvised table.
The rapidity with which a hot dinner was served by our Madras servants
would astonish stay-at-home people. Soup being in tins, takes very
little time to cook, as it has only to be heated; bacon takes but a
minute or two; and vegetables, curry, chickens, tapioca, and
rice-puddings having been prepared and more than half cooked at our last
halting-place, are quickly served. But even so, the boys deserved great
credit for their readiness and good management.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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