A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
The Zimmé Shans, unlike the British Shans, do not wear a chignon, nor
twine a silk handkerchief round their head, but have their hair dressed
either in the ancient or modern Siamese styles. The modern style much
resembles the European fashion; the ancient style consists in shaving
the sides and back of the head, and merely leaving a tuft like a
clothes-brush at the crown. Their bodies are tattooed from the waist
downwards, sometimes as far as the ankle. This custom does not now
extend either to the Siamese or to the Lao Shans, who occupy Luang
Prabang and the portion of the Meh Kong valley that lies to the south of
it, although tattooing is known to have been general among their
ancestors in the country to the north and south of the Yangtsze Kiang
long before our era commenced. It is not unlikely that the Burmese
acquired the habit from the Shans. The tattooing generally consists of
figures of birds and beasts and mythical monsters, including dragons and
ogres. Men who prize the reputation of being dare-devils have charms in
the form of cabalistic signs, arrangements of numbers and words,
contained in squares tattooed in red on their chest, back, and arms.
The tattooing instrument is a single split needle set in a heavy brass
socket. Having filled the needle with a preparation of indigo, the
operator pricks the pattern by a series of small punctures into the
skin. Vermilion is used when tattooing the upper part of the body.
Some dacoits let in talismans under the flesh, and precious stones are
carried about in the same manner. The talismans are mystical
incantations inscribed on gold, silver, lead, pebbles, pieces of
tortoise-shell, or even horn. It is not at all uncommon to meet a Shan
with several knobs on his chest, concealing the talismans that he has
inserted as charms to render him proof against bullet and sword. There
is perhaps not a man in the country who does not carry about with him
one or more charms; some string them like beads and wear them as
necklaces.
As a rule, the Zimmé Shans are a very quiet and tractable people, and
have a strong sense of what is just and right. Very few crimes occur
among them: this may be partly due to the people not being allowed to
leave their neighbourhood without the permission of their local
head-men, and to villagers being held responsible for any loss or crime
that may occur in their district, unless they can prove that the loss
was accidental, or can trace the crime to the culprit.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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