A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
Having enjoyed our Sunday’s rest, we left early the next morning, and
continued skirting, and frequently crossing, the stream. The deep forest
through which we passed was scented by the fragrance of
bauhinea-blossoms, and decked with the flowers of the _pinleh kathyt_
and _poukbin_. The covering of my howdah was soon nearly destroyed by
the bamboo-bushes, which in places had partly overgrown the path. The
mahouts were lopping off the overhanging branches and sprays that were
likely to interfere with the howdahs; the elephants were tugging down
saplings and crushing them under foot; and I had to be constantly on the
alert to guard against the spear-points of the lopped bamboos that
pierced through the roof and threatened to poke out my eyes. Surveying
the constant twists of the path under such circumstances is both
difficult and dangerous.
The valley became wider as we proceeded, and little plains from 400 to
800 feet across were of frequent occurrence. The procession of elephants
frequently closed up, owing to our having to cut our way, and I was able
to see the pranks the little elephant accompanying the prince played
with the men: he was making little rushes and hustling them over, and at
times giving a sudden lurch as he trotted by them, which, unless they
were ready and nimble, had the same effect. Every one was laughing at
each other’s discomfiture, and Ramasawmy, Dr Cushing’s boy, was crowning
Portow’s great straw hat, unbeknown to him, with a garland of leaves.
The granite boulders ceased near the 288th mile, where pine-trees still
crowned the low spurs on either side of us. Shortly afterwards we passed
a caravan of thirty-one laden cattle. Soon great glades appeared in the
forest, which gradually assumed a park-like appearance, and it became
apparent that we were on a great rolling and formerly cultivated plain
which extended as far as the eye could reach. Through the vast plateau
now spread before us, the Meh Low, flowing north, passes on its way to
the Meh Kong, and to the east of it the Meh Wung, flowing south,
proceeds to join the Meh Ping. The dip to the Meh Low was not
perceptible, and the rise in the plateau dividing that river from the
Meh Wung seemed one with that which we were descending. Loi Mun Moo, the
range to the east of the Meh Wung, was 18 miles distant, and not
perceptible, being hidden by the haze. The water-parting between the two
rivers, I found on a subsequent journey, was only 2148 feet above the
sea, or 181 feet lower than the camp we had breakfasted at.
[Illustration:
_View of Loi Mok and the head of the Meh Wung at 4.42 P.M. 10th
March._
]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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