A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
The Meh Khoke at the ford above the rest-houses is 600 feet broad, but
narrows to 350 feet just below the town. At the time of our visit it was
13 feet deep from the top of the banks, and had 3 feet of water in the
channel. Loi Pong Pra Bat, the hill of Buddha’s footprint, the southern
extremity of Loi Peh Muang, ends about nine miles to the north of the
city.
Kiang Hai, which is called Chieng Rai by the Siamese, like all Shan
cities is neatly laid out, and the roads are straight, ditched, and
neatly kept. The gardens of the houses are palisaded with bamboos,
pointed at the top, and have strong teak entrance-gates, which are
closed at night. Water is led into the town from a neighbouring stream
by an aqueduct entering near the western gate. There are twelve
entrances into the city, eight of which are larger than the others. The
Siamese, or Chau Tai, claim Kiang Hai (Chieng Rai) as their early
capital.
After breakfast we went into the city to call on the Chow Hluang, who
was an old acquaintance of Drs M‘Gilvary and Cushing. He resided in a
large temporary house built of bamboo and thatched, whilst a large
teak-house was being erected for him on the site of the house of a witch
that had been burnt after the ejectment of the family in 1870.
The chief—whose head was shaved in the ancient Shan style in
South-eastern China, still practised amongst the Lau Yuen or Lao in the
Meh Kong valley and by a few Ping Shans, which leaves only a cock’s-comb
of hair—received us without his jacket, bare to the waist. He was about
sixty-five years of age, and most courteous in his manner; and, like the
other chiefs we called upon, did all he could to assist us and give me
the best information in his power.
In answer to my questions, he said that there were 300 houses in the
town and 1700 in the district, making 2000 in all. On an average the
houses contained seven inhabitants. This seems to be the usual number
throughout the Zimmé States. He gave us a great deal of information
about the country, said that the river was full of weeds near its exit
to the Meh Kong, and that the land for some distance above its mouth was
inundated during the rains.
The country abounded in ruined cities, and must have been very populous
at one time, but the wars at the end of last century and at the
beginning of this had left it very destitute of inhabitants; and those
who had not been killed had partly fled to Mokmai and Moné, Shan States,
to the west of the Salween; while the rest had been taken captive to
Zimmé, Lakon, Lapoon, and Nan.
The Burmese Shans had endeavoured to occupy Kiang Hsen in 1873, but
Zimmé remonstrated with them, and sent 500 men to prevent them from
settling there.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account