A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
An arrangement had since been made, in 1881, under which the Ngio, or
Moné Shans, built their large villages about the Meh Khum, and the Zimmé
Shans were allowed to occupy Kiang Hsen, and the plain to the south of
the Upper (British) Shan villages. As the Zimmé Shans have since
encroached, and built a fort to the north of the Ngio villages,
disturbances are certain to occur unless we insist upon the Siamese
retiring within their proper boundary. The fort is simply a provocation
to the Ngio Shans.
The wife of the chief, a very homely lady, made kind inquiries after Dr
Cushing’s wife, who was with him on his former journey, and said that
she had often thought of them since they had left. On my presenting the
chief with a watch, he was so gratified that he called for the royal
annals and recorded my name in them, together with the fact of my being
the donor of it. The chief was full of the late visit of Dr Paul Neis,
and expressed his amusement and surprise that a European should wander
about the country in native garb and accustom himself to native habits.
When we got back to our house, we found a group of La-hu (called by the
Shans Mu-hseu or Moo-sur) squatting near the steps, and evidently much
interested in our surroundings and the cooking of our Madras boys. The
men, besides the ordinary Burmese Shan trousers, and jackets with loose
sleeves, dyed with indigo, wore black turbans twisted about their hair,
which was done up in a knot on the top of the back of their head. Their
faces were a distinct oval, like that of their kinsfolk the Lolos of
Ssuchuan and Yunnan. Their eyes were well opened, but had a slight
tendency to the Mongoloid droop of the inner corner of the eyelid, but
less than amongst the average Chinese.
The La-hu women were dressed in a petticoat, and a blue spencer folded
across the chest, with tight sleeves reaching to the wrist. Like the
men, they wore a black turban, one end of which hung down behind over
their chignon. Their hair was drawn back from the face, in the Burmese
fashion, but the chignon was placed higher up on the back of the head.
Their forehead was higher than it was broad, their cheek-bones high,
their nose and mouth well formed, the nose slightly expanding at the
nostrils, and their face was a decided oval. Thin silver hoops, about
three inches in diameter, hung from the lobe of each ear, and round
their necks they wore finely plaited cane necklaces.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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