A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
A mile from the camp we passed through Ban Doo, the village where import
duties are levied. Here, on my return, I purchased from the abbot of the
monastery several books concerning astrology, alchemy, sorcery,
cabalistical science, and medicine. Seeing two silver images of Gaudama,
with resin cores, I haggled with him for a long time over their price.
At first he pretended that it was impossible for him to part with these
images, as offerings had been made to them; but at the sight of many
two-anna and four-anna bits his compunctions gave way, and I carried
them off in triumph. They cost me dear, however, for on my sending them
home, with other things, to my sister, our canny custom-house officials
charged the resin as solid silver.
Large herds of cattle and buffaloes were feeding in the plain, and
waging ceaseless war with their tails against myriads of bloodthirsty
gad and elephant-flies. The elephants were likewise greatly annoyed by
these flying leeches, and carried leafy branches in their trunks to
switch them off their bodies. No one who has seen elephants fanning
themselves with great palmyra-leaves, switching at the flies, or
scratching themselves with twigs, could consider man the sole tool-using
animal.
On leaving the rice-fields at Done Ban Kwang, we crossed the Meh Khow
Tome, near a village of the same name, and halted for the night. The Meh
Khow Tome is 12 feet broad, 5 feet deep, and had 9 inches of water in
its bed. Its name implies the “river of cooked rice,” and is said to be
derived from Gaudama having cooked rice on its banks when proceeding to
impress his footprint on Loi Pong Pra Bat.
On reaching the camp I noticed rain-clouds gathering overhead, and asked
the Chow Phya to arrange for our occupation of a large vacant house that
had just been completed. On the arrival of the village head-man, he told
us that owing to the spirits not having been propitiated, if any one
slept under the roof misfortunes would certainly happen; and he begged
us to refrain from doing so. He said game was exceedingly plentiful in
the neighbourhood, and that wild elephant, rhinoceros, wild cattle, and
pigs were often seen by the hunters; and deer, hare, pea-fowl,
jungle-fowl, and quail were abundant.
Tigers, and, I believe, leopards, were prowling round the camp after
nightfall; the clear “peet, peet” of the tiger and the “myow” came from
different directions. The Shans, however, declared that they were both
the cries of tigers—one when they were angry or in search of food, and
the other when they were satisfied.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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