A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
Early the next morning we recrossed the stream, and followed it up for
four miles, the plain gradually rising as we proceeded. Teak-trees were
sprinkled through the forest which neighboured the plain, and numerous
yellow-flowered orchids hung in clusters from the branches of the trees.
The forest gradually closed in, leaving a grass plain three-quarters of
a mile wide, which we edged on the west, occasionally startling an
elk-deer. A low hillock fringed the east of the plain, backed by a
higher one three-quarters of a mile beyond it.
The forest was one of the most magnificent and varied I have ever seen.
Padouk, thyngan, thytkado, wild mango, kanyin, banian, and many other
fine trees whose names I do not know, grew to an enormous size. One
looked for giants to match the trees, everything was so huge. The forest
was a fit home for elephants and rhinoceroses. A kanyin-tree that I
measured was 20 feet in girth 5 feet from the ground, and over 200 feet
in height.
One of the men brought Dr M‘Gilvary a piece of bark off a large tree,
and after smelling it, he sent it to Dr Cushing, who, after doing
likewise, forwarded it to me. It nearly knocked me down. Of all the
horrible odours I ever met with, that was the worst. Bracken and other
ferns, as well as screw-pines, flourished in the deep shade of the
forest.
At 367 miles we crossed the Huay Pa Au, the last stream that enters the
Meh Khow Tome, and fifteen minutes later, without any perceptible rise,
reached the Huay Leuk, which is said to enter the Meh Chun. We had
crossed the water-parting between the Kiang Hai and Kiang Hsen plains
without being aware of it.
Half a mile farther we crossed the toe of a spur, and then passed amidst
low hillocks until we reached a dry brook 6 feet wide and 5 feet deep,
where we halted for breakfast. The hills had ceased, and we were in the
Kiang Hsen plain. The height of the water-parting between it and the
plain of Kiang Hai was 1471 feet above the sea, and only 151 feet above
Kiang Hai. Our camp was 369½ miles from Hlineboay, and 1447 feet above
the sea.
Whilst inking the notes in my field-book, butterflies settled on my
hand, and were as brave and persistent as house-flies. No sooner had I
shaken them off than they were back again, being rocked on my hand as I
wrote. The jungle, particularly in the neighbourhood of water, simply
swarms with insect-life. An entomologist could fill a case in a
morning’s walk. He would have but to shake his net under the leaves of a
few bushes for walking-leaves, stick-insects, ant-cows, lady-birds, and
a variety of remarkable beetles, to drop into it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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