A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
Learning that the Chow Hona, or second chief, had returned, we went to
call on him. On approaching his house we noticed four ladies winding
silk in the verandah, one of whom at once went to call him. After
welcoming us warmly, he said a wild elephant had just killed a man close
to the city. The man’s companions, on seeing the elephant approach, had
clambered up trees, and shouted to him to do likewise. He refused,
saying the elephant would not hurt him. After the elephant had passed,
they again called to the man, and receiving no answer, searched the
jungle, and found his remains quite mashed up. The prince said this
elephant was so fearless that it was in the habit of crossing the
rice-fields close to the city in broad daylight. The Chow Hluang had
issued an order against its destruction, as it was of enormous size, and
served as a stallion for his female elephants. His feet, as measured
from his footprints, were two feet broad; and therefore, as the height
of an elephant equals double the circumference of his feet, his height
would be 12 feet and 3 inches, or greater than that of any of the King
of Siam’s elephants. There is a general belief amongst the Burmese and
Shans that the spirits of human beings who have been slain by an
elephant ride on the animal’s head, warning him of his approach to
pitfalls and hunters, and guiding him to where he may kill people, so as
to add to their own company. It is therefore considered hopeless to even
fire at one which has destroyed many men. Tracking a wild elephant on
foot is always dangerous, as it is liable to return on its path and
attack its pursuers.
We had a long chat with the prince about the proposed railway. He
appeared to be a very intelligent man, and although gaunt and ungainly
in build, with an awkward gait, possessed great strength, and was
evidently very active. His temperament was high-strung, and his black
bead-like eyes wandered in every direction with a vigilance that nothing
could escape. He seemed much interested in the extension of trade with
Burmah, Siam, and China, and said the chiefs and people would be
delighted if the railway was put in hand. Every help they could give
would be gladly rendered; that teak was plentiful in the country, and
free permission would certainly be granted to cut it for the sleepers
and bridges. As for labour, as many Kamooks as would be required could
be hired from Luang Prabang. Their wages for working in the teak-forests
were fifty rupees a year and food, and the latter did not cost more than
three rupees a month. Gangs of Chinese Shans from the Shan States to the
east of Bhamo come every year to work in the Ping Shan States, and could
be employed on the railway. Other Shans would doubtless stream in from
Yunnan when once it was known that more labour was required, and that
good wages would be paid. A great part of the labour in Kiang Tung is
carried out by Chinese from Yunnan.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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