A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
The following day the Chow Hona breakfasted with us. In answer to our
inquiries, he said the easiest route from Zimmé to Kiang Hsen was _viâ_
Viang Pow and Muang Fang, crossing the Meh Khoke at Ta Taung, and thence
over Loi Kee-o Sa Tai (2650 feet above the sea) to the Meh Chun, and
along that river to Ban Meh Kee, where the route joins that which we had
taken. A better route we afterwards found would be from Zimmé _viâ_
Muang Ngai; thence up the Meh Pam, and over the Pe Pau Nam
(water-parting) into the valley of the Meh Fang. The pass over the
water-parting is only 2158 feet above the sea. From Muang Fang this
route would follow that indicated by the prince, which was traversed by
Mr Archer in 1887. The loop-line could be completed by joining Zimmé
with the main line again at Lakon, or, _viâ_ Muang Li, near the mouth of
the Meh Wung.
On our returning his call, we found some of the fruit-trees in his
garden absolutely laden with women and children picking the fruit, and
teeming with laughter and merriment. Dr M‘Gilvary, being very much
pleased with the paces of the female elephant I had been riding from
Kiang Hsen, had arranged on the journey to purchase it from the mahout,
who was its owner, for 500 rupees, and had just learnt that the Chow
Hluang, whose serf the owner was, had decided to purchase it for 400
rupees, and that the man dare not say him nay. On his telling the Chow
Hona of his disappointment, he said he would at once go and expostulate
with the chief about it. It was only right that Dr M‘Gilvary should have
the animal, as he had made the first and highest offer, and it was not
fair that the man should be robbed of 100 rupees. He asked us to stop,
and said he would be back in a few minutes. On his return he told us he
had been successful; and that the Chow Hluang, who had not previously
heard of Dr M‘Gilvary’s offer, had at once given up his claim. As a mark
of his friendship for the Doctor, the Chow Hona insisted upon presenting
him with a handsome covered howdah for the elephant, and would not hear
of payment being made for it. I noticed many similar instances of
friendship on the part of the nobles I met on my journeys towards Dr
M‘Gilvary, who seems by his utter unselfishness and frank cordiality,
and great tact and kindness, to have won the esteem of the people of the
country.
On the 30th March, being Sunday, he held a service in the town, and had
a large audience of Shans. His delivery is very simple and unaffected.
The man is a thorough gentleman at heart, as well as an earnest
enthusiast in his mission. The more I saw of him, the more I liked him.
I never, during our long journeys together, saw him do a selfish action.
When tired, and nearly worn out with insomnia and fever, he sat up late,
night after night, to translate for me, because otherwise I could not
procure the information I required, as everything had to be packed and
the elephants off by daybreak.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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