A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
Many hundreds of Lapoon immigrants on their way to Kiang Hsen were
encamped near our _sala_, and one morning fully 1000 others crossed the
river on their way to Kiang Hsen. It is pitiful to learn from Mr Archer
that he was told by the Chow Hluang of Kiang Hsen in 1887, that about a
third of the immigrants had died since the foundation of the colony in
1881. In Mr Archer’s words, “The privations the early settlers had to
suffer probably increased the mortality; but fever was doubtless
engendered by clearing the rank vegetation, and will lose much of its
virulence when the country is better occupied.”
One morning the mist lifted from the valley of the Meh Khoke, and I was
able to sketch the hills stretching thirty miles to the west, or as far
as the eye could reach. It was evident that the great rib spurs jutting
towards the river from the northern range were very much higher than the
backbone from which they sprang: this seems frequently to be the case in
the hills between the Meh Kong and the Salween.
[Illustration:
_View up the Meh Khoke from Kiang Hai._
]
Whilst watching a couple of the elephant-drivers boxing with regular
boxing-gloves, our old acquaintances the Moosurs came to pay us a visit,
and again brought their children with them. It was merely a case of
“How-do-you-do?” and “Good-bye,” as we had to go to the Chow-Hluang’s to
complain about two of the promised elephants not having arrived. On
reaching his house he told us that the wife of the owner of the
elephants had sent word that the elephants had been scared by a
jungle-fire, and had stampeded; that her husband was away after them,
and had not yet returned. On our telling the Chow Hona the cause of the
delay, he ordered the woman to be brought to the Court-house and put in
chains. The elephants were at once brought in, and we were able to start
on the morrow.
Next morning, the 31st March, the Chow Hona and Chow Nan Kyow Wong, our
companion from Zimmé, came to see us off, and were accompanied by the
Chow Phya, or head judge of Kiang Hai, who had been told off to conduct
us to Penyow. Six large elephants, two of which had babies with them,
had been hired for us, and Dr M‘Gilvary rode the elephant he had
purchased. I once more chose an easy-going female elephant for myself,
and had the amusement of watching the pranks of its big baby during the
march. These young elephants were the source of immense fun, but were an
intolerable nuisance to the men on foot, whom they delighted to
playfully tumble over like ninepins when the opportunity, for which they
were always on the alert, occurred. By half-past six we had said
good-bye and left Kiang Hai, which is 183 miles distant from Zimmé by
the road we were to take. The mileage on this journey implies the
distance from that place, and therefore gets less as we proceed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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