Leave Muang Fang—My comrades hunting—Those boys again: panic-stricken fisherwomen—Water-parting between the Meh Ping and Meh Kong—Railway from Zimmé to Muang Fang and Kiang Hsen—A freak of nature—Tree eight feet broad—A deer-lick—Bed without dinner—Illness of missionaries—Sitting on a snake—Head or tail, query—Emigrants carrying spinning-wheels—Cross the Meh Ngat—A beautiful plain—Viang Pow—Visit from the governor—Ngio raids—Lolo and Karen villages—Effect of monopolies—People deserting Muang Fang—Officials collecting taxes for monopolists—No gambling and opium dens—Cost of carriage—Export of rice—One son-in-law in one house—Trade-routes—Leave Viang Pow—The defile of the Meh Ngat—Accident to aneroid—A fine view—An aristocratic governor—Population—Wild tea—Light taxation—Free from vices—Put up with a Shan convert—Women well treated amongst the Shans—Cutch-trees—Reach Zimmé, 360 CHAPTER XXX. Offering to the good influences—The spirit in sleep—The ceremony of Tum Kwun—Spirit-worship of Ping Shans—Arrangements for leaving—Visit Siamese prince—A Gatling gun as an ornament—Railway routes—Number of fighting-men—Dismiss Loogalay—Pretty pagodas—Boxing and wrestling—The bridge breaks—Presents from Chow Oo-boon—A lover’s lute—Lace prized—Dr Cushing’s views on the Ping Shans—Connection with Siam—Taxation—_Corvée_ labour—Serfs—Slaves purchased from Red Karens—Debt slaves in chains—Religion—Field for missionaries, 373 CHAPTER XXXI. Apathy of Siamese officials—Proposal to survey passes between Siam and Burmah—Mr Webster’s offer—Preparations for boat-journey to Bangkok—Boats and crew—Kindness of missionaries—Leave Zimmé—Number of villages—Shan embroideries—Buying petticoats—An evening bath—Shameless women—Preparing for the rapids—More bargains—Scrambling for beads—Enter the defile—Magnificent scenery—Geological changes—Underground rivers—Subsidence and periods of unrest—An earthquake-belt—Limestone cliffs—A Chinese smuggler—Roped down the rapids—Picturesque cliffs—Precipices a mile high—A waterfall—Three pagodas—Offerings to demons—Spirits of the jungle—Forming spirit-clans—Alluring travellers to death—Lascivious spirits—M‘Leod’s route—Shooting dangerous rapids—Kamook lumber-men—The pillar-rock—Pass to Ban Meh Pik—Sketching the governor—Path to Maulmain—Searching for rubies—A sambhur deer—Leave the defiles—Entrance of the Meh Wung—Paths for the railway—Silver-mines—Reach Raheng, 390 CHAPTER XXXII.