A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
Camping in the evergreen forest, under the great tree, with the air
rapidly cooling after the heat of the day, was very enjoyable, and was
rendered more so by recollections of our late stuffy quarters in the
pest-ridden city. Then we had pork, roast-pork, for dinner! No one can
realise what a luxury that is who has not existed mainly upon fowls for
several weeks.
For the sake of future travellers in these parts, I may here note the
particulars of our daily meals. Before dawn, whilst the elephant-men
were bathing their charges in the neighbouring stream and we were having
our morning dip, our boys were cooking our _chota haziri_, or early
meal, which consisted of a tin of Kopp’s soup mixed with a
table-spoonful of Liebig’s essence of beef, and some biscuits, with
coffee, cocoa, or tea, and half cooking the fowls which would be
required for our breakfast. By daybreak our meal was completed, and
everything packed on the elephants, so that we might be away as soon as
it was light. On each of our howdahs we carried a cosie-covered Chinese
teapot, into which hot tea had been poured after having been brewed in
another pot, and an enamelled teacup to drink out of when thirsty on the
journey.
At breakfast, which was served during our mid-day halt, we had soup,
chickens, sometimes a duck, curry, and rice, and vegetables when we
could get them. The tender shoots of young bamboos, and certain
fern-fronds when stripped of their stalks, form excellent substitutes
for garden vegetables, and were frequently eaten by us when procurable.
Our dinners were similar to our breakfasts, with the addition of fried
plantains, tapioca, sago, or boiled rice and jam. Beef was a luxury
seldom to be had, and to procure a beefsteak one had to purchase an ox.
The following morning we were off early, and two miles beyond our camp
came to the water-parting that divides the streams flowing into the Meh
Kong from those emptying into the Meh Nam. It was only 1643 feet above
the level of the sea, or 377 feet above Penyow, which was here 14 miles
distant.
Nothing could have been more surprising to us. Loi Kong Lome, the great
range to our right that separates the Meh Ngow from the Meh Ing, was
four or five miles distant, and dying down into the plain, while Loi Nam
Lin, the main range on our left, was ten miles away, with its nearest
spur two miles from us.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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