A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
We were in a great gap between two ranges of mountains, and were merely
crossing the undulating ground intervening between them. Here was a
freak of nature to be taken advantage of for railway purposes. I had now
proved that the water-parting of the Meh Kong and the Meh Nam could be
crossed through a gap in the mountains, and that Kiang Hung, at the foot
of the Yunnan plateau, could be joined to Bangkok, the capital of Siam,
by a railway passing through a series of valleys separated from each
other by only undulating ground, which offered no physical obstruction
to the carrying out of the work. It now remained to be seen whether an
alternative line _viâ_ the valley of the Meh Wung, which would bring
Zimmé and Maulmain into nearer connection with the railway, was equally
feasible.
Descending along the Meh Yu-ek, amongst hillocks and broken ground, we
seemed to be passing through the valley of the shadow of death. The
forest had a ghastly appearance. Dead bamboos lay like spellicans cast
about in every direction, and many had been crushed down by others to
the ground, which was carpeted with yellow silvery leaves. The light
colour of the bark of the few trees scattered amongst the clumps was
strangely in tone with the dead bamboos; and their yellow-green,
fresh-sprouted foliage, added to the weird aspect of the scene. One
could nearly believe that the pale-blue and yellow butterflies flitting
over the path were the souls of human beings in the land of dreams, or
on their pilgrimage to a new life.
After descending 363 feet in 4 miles, we reached Ban Hai, a hamlet in a
forest of noble teak-trees. Near here, willows were growing in the
stream-bed, and a caravan of thirty-five laden cattle passed on their
way from Muang Peh to Kiang Hai.
We continued along the stream for another two miles, and then left it
flowing to our right, and crossing a couple of low spurs, descended to
and crossed the Meh Ngow. This river at our ford was 1073 feet above the
sea, 60 feet broad, and 6 feet deep, with 6 inches of water in its bed.
The fall from the crest of the pass to our crossing of the Meh Ngow was
only 570 feet in a distance of 8 miles. Three-quarters of a mile farther
we halted for breakfast at a house that had been erected for our use in
the rice-plain of Ban Koi.
We were once again in a cultivated region, and from here to Muang Ngow
our path led chiefly through rice-fields and tobacco-gardens.
Early the next morning we reached the beautifully wooded city of Muang
Ngow, which is situated 93¾ miles from Zimmé, and 798 feet above the
sea.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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