A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
Next morning we were unable to start as early as we wished, because two
of the elephants had broken their ankle-shackles in the night, and had
strayed some distance before they were tracked and brought back. Rangoon
creeper, the Chinese honeysuckle, abounded in the neighbourhood of the
camp, and was in full flower. We continued for half a mile through the
rice-plain, and then entered the forest. Two miles farther, after
crossing the Meh Pan, we traversed some slightly rising ground, and
descended to the Meh Sun close to its debouchment into the plain.
The Meh Sun, which we were about to follow for ten miles to its source,
runs in a narrow valley bordered on either side by a teak-clad,
table-topped mountain-spur trending in the direction of the stream,
which runs from north-west to south-east.
Our first crossing of this mountain torrent was 38 miles from Zimmé, and
14 miles from Lakon, and lies at an elevation of 1049 feet above the
sea.
After skirting the stream for some miles, we ascended to a _sala_, which
had been erected for travellers on the crest of a small plateau-topped
spur, and halted for breakfast. The rest-house was 34 miles from Zimmé.
Whilst we were breakfasting, Dr M‘Gilvary noticed that small spots had
broken out on Dr Cushing’s hands. On his examining them, he said that
there could be no doubt that they were smallpox. Dr Cushing said that
they had been coming out for two days, and he was afraid that it might
be the case. On calling the Shan interpreters, they at once agreed with
Dr M‘Gilvary, and we accordingly made arrangements as far as possible to
cut off the chance of contagion from the remainder of the party. The two
interpreters and Dr Cushing’s servant, as well as the elephant-men, had
suffered from the disease: we therefore put aside cutlery, crockery,
cooking utensils, &c., for the invalid; arranged that the interpreters
and his boy should wait solely upon him; gave up the rest-house to them;
had a temporary shelter made for ourselves; and halted for the night,
instead of making an afternoon journey.
The next morning we were off at daybreak, hurrying on towards Zimmé,
where there was a doctor attached to the Presbyterian Mission. The
beautiful dale which we were ascending reminded me of the lovely
Derbyshire dells. The plateau-topped hills on either side were of no
great height, and were wooded to their summit. The cool morning air
bathed one’s face, and everything around gave one a sense of exquisite
pleasure. The fresh spring foliage spangled with dewdrops, partially
hiding the silver-grey trunks of the trees; the dark-coloured water
meandering over the white sand of the stream-bed, twisting and twirling
round great granite boulders, and falling in little cascades; and the
whole glistening in the early morning’s sun, made a perfect picture.
Even the leafless and ungainly teak-trees added beauty by contrast to
the scene.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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