A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
Leaving the stream where it forked near some _euphorbia_ trees more than
40 feet high, which resembled gigantic cacti, we ascended the
intermediate spur, and passed through a gap in the crest, 20 feet deep,
which had been worn down by elephants and cattle in the course of
centuries.
Our ascent along the spur was fraught with peril, as the hill was
composed of friable earth, and great slips had occurred on either slope,
frequently leaving a very narrow track, with precipices 80 and 100 feet
deep close to its edge. Often there was only room for the elephants’
feet placed one before the other, and deep holes had been worn by their
following each other in the same foot-tracks for generations. Whilst on
this narrow path we had to give way for cattle caravans to pass us, and
at one time we were nearly precipitated down a great slip by a caravan
of forty laden cattle meeting at a bend in the track. There was room for
neither to turn back; but, fortunately, we were on a ledge in the slope
of the hill, and our great beasts managed to scramble up the side,
although it seemed nearly impossible for them to mount it.
On our way we met two Chinamen on ponies, accompanied by four porters;
and shortly afterwards 151 laden cattle on their way to Lakon. The
summit of the pass lies 28 miles from Zimmé, and 2136 feet above the
level of the sea.
Our descent to the plain of the Meh Ta lay down the narrow valley of the
Meh Sow, a stream that rises near the summit, and is bounded on either
side by hill-spurs, having their crests about two miles apart, and
sloping nearly to the stream-bed. For the first two miles the track led,
for the sake of shortness, over several cross-spurs, and then descended
to the Meh Sow, where the torrent was 40 feet wide and 2 feet deep, and
flowing down its granite bed in a series of beautiful cascades.
The air was scented with the fragrant yellow blossoms of the padouk
trees, and teak crested the spurs where the Meh Sow debouches on the
plain. Leaving the stream near its exit from the hills, we continued
through a forest of _eng_ and _thyt-ya_ (the Indian Sal tree), until we
reached the Meh Ta. This river is 200 feet broad, 9 feet deep, with 6
inches of water, and enters the Meh Hkuang a few miles above its
junction with the Meh Ping.
Having crossed the Meh Ta, we halted for the night at a couple of
_salas_ close to the bank, and to Ban Meh Ta.
Leaving the next day, we marched through a gap between the sandstone
hillocks; near which the direct road to Zimmé leaves our route. Here we
met twenty-four laden oxen. Two miles farther we commenced the ascent of
the spur that divides the affluents of the Meh Ta from those of the Meh
Hkuang. The ascent and descent were steep for some little distance from
the crest. A tunnel through the spur would only need to be a few hundred
yards long.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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