A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
Two miles and a half from the crest rice-fields commenced, and from
thence to 15 miles beyond Zimmé nearly the whole plain is under
cultivation, and villages[13] are numerous. Continuing through the
plain, I halted to ascend a knoll named Loi Tee, that juts up from the
plain some distance beyond where a low spur from the hill we had last
crossed ends. Loi Tee is about 100 feet high, and is crested by a
celebrated pagoda and temple, from whose grounds a magnificent view is
obtained of the country. Dr M‘Gilvary and the remainder of the party,
with the exception of Moung Loogalay and my guide, went on with Dr
Cushing, whilst I got off my elephant to visit the shrine.
The broad brick staircase, 700 feet long, which led up to the platform
of the pagoda, was roofed in a similar manner to the one leading up to
the Shway Dagon pagoda at Rangoon; and several men were employed
repairing it in expectation of a visit from the Siamese prince. The
temple was beautifully decorated with gold-leaf, tinsel, and glass of
various colours. A wooden horse of full life-size was standing saddled
on the platform near the pagoda, reminding one of the enchanted flying
horse in the ‘Arabian Nights.’
A raised cart-road 10 feet wide leading from Loi Tee to the ford over
the Meh Hkuang, opposite the south entrance-gate of Lapoon, had recently
been repaired, and, with its continuation towards Zimmé, was the only
good made-road outside a town that I met during my journeys. After
following this road for two and a half miles, we crossed the river
(which is 250 feet broad, 10 feet deep, and had 9 inches of water in its
bed), and entered the city. Five minutes later we halted at the house of
Chow Don, the Siamese Assistant Judge, which is situated close to the
Wat Hluang or Great Temple of Lapoon, where we put up for the night. The
north gate of the city lies 12 miles from Zimmé, and the bank of the
river is 1028 feet above the sea.
After breakfast, I wandered about the city visiting the pagodas and
temples. The Great Temple, the finest seen by me in the Shan States, is
150 feet long and 65 feet broad. The posts of the centre aisle are 2¼
feet in diameter, and 60 feet high from the floor to the wall-plate.
They are coloured with vermilion, and decorated with gold-leaf. The
woodwork of the temple is beautifully carved and gilded, and richly
inlaid with glass and tinsel of various colours; and the floor is
flagged with rectangular slabs of marble. No expense seems to have been
spared in building, adorning, and preserving the temples at this city.
Many fine bronze images have been dedicated to the temples, besides the
ordinary heavily gilded brick and plaster images: one of the latter, a
reclining image of Gaudama, was 36 feet long.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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