A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
Another case of snake-worship I heard of whilst staying in Bangkok. It
appears that a certain temple in Kampheng Phet contained a large bronze
image of Phya Nakh, the king of the Nagas, which was said to be very
ancient, and was held in high veneration by people for miles round. A
German merchant chancing to visit the temple, thought how extremely well
the image would look in a German museum, and accordingly determined to
annex it. Waiting till night had fallen, he proceeded quietly to the
temple with his boatmen, and tried to carry it off. Finding that it was
too heavy to remove entire, he broke off the head and the lower portions
of the arms, together with the hands, the fingers of which were covered
with rings, and carried them away. There was a great outcry the next
morning, and the matter was reported to the King of Siam, who was highly
indignant at the ruthless destruction of an object of veneration, and,
after some correspondence, had the parts that had been carried away
returned. From a photograph of the head and hands I thought that the
image must be one of Siva, as it had the mark resembling the third eye
on the forehead, and a serpent above the crown, which I fancied might be
intended for a flame of fire; but I was assured by a gentleman who had
seen the body and the pedestal, that the twining snakes about them left
no doubt that the image was intended for the king of the Nagas. An
entire image of such a Siva, or else snake-god, was seen by Mr Bourne
near Ssumao. The horrid image was “seated on a white ox, with a sash
composed of human heads round its breast, and armed with a trident and
bell. It had six arms covered with snakes, and three faces, with the
usual scar in the middle of the forehead replaced by an eye. An
intelligent native told us it was the local god. And to the remark that
he was of dreadful aspect, he replied ‘Yes; he is just like that.’”
That Siva—whose text-books are “those singular compounds of
cabalistic mystery, licentiousness, and blood, the Agamas or
Tantras”—was worshipped in the Zimmé Shan kingdom as late as the
middle of last century, is evidenced by the ‘History of Lakon,’
which states, that “at this time the chief priest of the temple,
called Wat Na Yang, was a sorcerer, conjuring spirits by the means
of the skulls of persons who had died a violent death. He came to be
considered a man of extraordinary merit, and was consulted by every
one.” Comparing this statement with Dr W. H. Mills’s translation of
the Prabodha-chandra-udaya, Act 3, that appeared in J.R.A.S. No. 61
of 1837, I think there can be little doubt on the matter. The
translation runs thus—
“With flesh of men, with brain and fat well smeared,
We make our grim burnt-offering,—break our fast
From cups of holy Brahman’s skull,—and ever
With gurgling drops of blood that plenteous stream
From hard throats quickly cut by us is worshipped
With human offerings meet, our god, dread Bhairava [Siva].”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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