A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
We were lulled to sleep by the chanting of the pupils in the monastery,
and were awakened, soon after four o’clock the next morning, by the
tolling of the temple bells, two in number, each of bronze, with
inscriptions on them. One bell was three feet in diameter at the mouth,
and the other two feet. As the sun rose, and our elephants were being
loaded, a procession of men, women, and children was seen approaching
across the plain, bringing the day’s food for the monks and their
pupils, and small bags of sand to trim up the paths in the temple
grounds. A magnificent _padouk_ tree was in full flower near the temple,
round which clustered numerous bees, making the air musical with their
humming.
Leaving the temple, we continued skirting the rice-fields until we
crossed the Meh Sa (60 feet broad and 9 feet deep, with 1 foot of water)
close to its entrance into the Meh Ping, at 6½ miles. On the way we met
ten loaded elephants accompanied by two of their big babies, and
numerous caravans of laden cattle, some conveying tiles to Zimmé. Most
of the cattle had bells of metal or bamboo hung round their necks to
enable them to be easily traced when straying in the forest; and the
leaders had a bow, or arch, of bent wood fastened above their shoulders,
from which was suspended a metal bell 10 inches high and 4 inches long,
and 2 inches broad at the mouth. The orange-shaped fruit on the
_nuxvomica_ trees had been largely consumed by hornbills.
For the next mile and a half, until we reached the Meh Lim, we skirted
the river. The temples in the villages were beautifully ornamented with
carvings, and decorated with red and gold; and the gardens were fragrant
with the scent of pomelo and orange-trees, now in blossom. In the fields
we noticed many _pouk_ (stick-lac) trees,[16] and I was told by Dr
M‘Gilvary that, as there was a heavy penalty enacted for cutting these
trees down, they are left standing wherever the jungle is cleared.
The Meh Lim, which enters the Meh Ping from the west, with its affluents
the Meh Peum and Meh How, drains a great area of country, including some
extensive plains. Two days’ journey above its mouth this river passes
through a gorge, which is celebrated for its 400 footprints of Gaudama,
called _Pra Bat shee-roi_ or _Prabat see-hoi_. M‘Leod mentions these in
his journal as _Pa-bat Sip hoi_, and accounts for the name by saying
that “the four Buddhs have each trod on the identical stone, the prints
of each succeeding one being smaller than the preceding one.” I procured
the names of nine villages and an ancient city called Muang Ka on the
Meh Lim, and of seven villages on the Meh How and Meh Peun. Tea is said
to grow wild on the hills neighbouring these rivers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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